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Thread: Rockwell / Delta Toolmaker Grinder

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Manitoba
    Posts
    536

    Post Rockwell / Delta Toolmaker Grinder

    Just acquired one. For those who aren't familiar with these, they are a combination surface grinder / tool & cutter grinder.

    Wasn't aware of these myself until I saw the ad for this one.

    Anyone here have experience with them?

    I was able to download a manual (a pleasant surprise) from the Delta site, but I still need the instructions for using it as t&c / chipbreaker grinder. Anyone know of a source?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    295

    Thumbs up

    Quick directions to runnin any tool & cutter grinder. Hope that this helps you some!

    Grinding is a strange and wonderful thing no doubt about it!!

    ****** SHARPENING END MILLS *******

    1) Use a cup wheel and dress it so you have about a 1/16" edge on it. You want a 60 "J" wheel (soft) or so so that you don't burn the edge. Turn the wheel head 1*so that you make sure that you are grinding on the edge of the wheel. This is for flat grinding and is done dry.

    2) Set up the airspindle 90* to the wheel head. Remember that have already set the wheel head at a small angle so that you are grinding on the edge of the grinding wheel. Adjust the table so that it has the start of the grinding done from the end of the tooth nearest the shank. Lock the table. All of the movement is done with the airspindle attachment! Table does not move. You grind n mills from the back to the end of the end mill by pulling on the spindle as you roll it around the tooth rest. The airspindle attachment has the angles that you set for the primary and secondary angles. Watch the edge of the cutter. If it starts to turn yellow STOP AND REDRESS THE WHEEL!! Grind away ALL of the burned edge. One of the biggest prolems is over heating the cutting edge of the tool. As you get better you will automatically know when to stop and dress the wheel. A Norton Norbide stick works well.

    3) Start by grinding the periphery of the n mills. Fastest if you get them all together and do all of them at one set up. Just start anywhere and grind around until you have 100% clean up on the primary angle. Don't grind all of the bad tooth first . That can lead to the uneven tooth height. (Out of round). Reset the secondary angle and grind the teeth until the primary angle's land width is correct. Get a copy of the "Machinist Handbook" that has the T&C grinder info in it. My 1952 edition is not too good. The 23rd edition is fine. Maybe olders one since 1952 have it but you would have to check before buying. You can just eyeball some NEW cutters to get the primary width. It really not too critical.

    2) Unlock the table. It now does the moving and the holder just indexes the cutter. I had a Cincinnati #2 T&C grinder and I used the Cincinnati head supplied w/it. I used a 24 division indexing ring that had the slots on the outside of it. It attached to the head and a spring loaded tooth (also attached to the head) held it while you ground the end of the end mills. Set the table stop so that the wheel comes to the center of the cutter but does not hit the adjacent teeth. You will have to play around here to get it right. You will have to move the head up and down some. Nothing like OJT!!!!

    Turn your holder 89* to the edge of the grinding wheel and tilt it up at a 5* angle. Grind the primary angle first get 100% clean up. Tilt the head up to 15* and grind the secondary angle. You will have to roll the cutter around using the adjustable tool rest to get it straight with the primary angle. Compound angles do that.

    3) Take a penny or some piece of copper larger than a penny and wipe the periphery of the end mill to take off the burr left by the grinding wheel. Dip them in Seal Peel (a waxlike substance filled with oil) and lay them on the shelf. The SP is really not mandatory but it keeps them form rollling around and striking the cutting edges. It also smell bad. It is the traditional way to finish cutters when they are done. Tape works fine.

    I took a course on the Tool and Cutter grinder at Cincinnati Milicron in 1975. At the time they had just shut down their apprentice machinist training program and they had 10 million dollars of machine tools standing around in their training center gathering dust. Someone came up w/the idea of selling training courses to the public on them. You got individual instruction (there were only 3 people in my class) eight hours per day for five days and they threw in lunch, a plant tour, and a graduation ceremony in the corporate cafeteria. The instructor was named Don (can't remember his last name) who was their #2 T&C trouble shooter. Superb instructor and funny to boot!! On our last day he even showed us how to take off the table and replace the balls and perform the disassembly of the machine to trouble shoot it for any problems. All of this for the princely sum of $275.00 !!! I have no idea where you would get this information today.

    Regards, Ken



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Manitoba
    Posts
    536

    Post

    Many thanks Ken!
    I'll be printing out your directions - for ongoing reference.
    Sounds like the course that you took was excellent...a rare opportunity.

    No airspindle with this machine. May have to add that to the project list.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    191

    Post

    You could do a lot worse than getting hold of a copy of John Stevensons Tool & Cutter Grinding CD. He has em on ebay right now
    Phil

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