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Thread: Mini mill riser blocks

  1. #41
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    I am not too sure that the four sections of pipe would be such a bad idea. Remember that they will each be loaded in compression by the mounting bolt that is running through them. This will make them a lot like pre-stressed concrete, which is a very strong building technique. I would use the thickest walled pipe I could find and in the largest diameter which will fit with the entire end of the pipes in contact with the machine on both ends.

    The hard part will be making them all the same length. I suspect you will need to tram in the mill using some shims after installing the riser pipes.

    Use a torque wrench to get them all at the same pre-loading. And make that as high as you can with the bolts and materials (CI?).

    You may have a bit more flexing than a solid block would allow, but it will not be that bad.

    On the other hand, have you looked at the local scrap yards for a nice block of steel?
    Paul A.

    Make it fit.
    You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

  2. #42
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    Mar 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alistair Hosie View Post
    What about a big block of heavy duty black nylon delrin? Alistair
    No. Plastics like Nylon cold form. How would that be better than or more readily available than a steel block?

  3. #43
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    Sep 2012
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    Fort Bragg, CA
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    I think I'm going to face the top and bottom of the riser on the lathe with the 4 jaw and shim it when I install the thing

  4. #44
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    Nov 2008
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    Using the lathe is a good idea. Try to find a way to make sure that the first faced surface is aligned before doing the second face. The face of the chuck is usually pretty flat, so using parallels when mounting the block may work.

    Dan
    Measure twice. Cut once. Weld. Repeat.
    ( Welding solves many problems.)

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    The four jaw can pull you block out of line!

    If you have a faceplate. Take a light truing cut on it. Then drill the four holes in the block undersize and tap them. Bolt the block to the faceplate and face it. Turn it over and face the other side. Last operation drill out the bolt holes. Should now be parallel and true.

    Bob

  6. #46
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    Sep 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Ford View Post
    The four jaw can pull you block out of line!

    If you have a faceplate. Take a light truing cut on it. Then drill the four holes in the block undersize and tap them. Bolt the block to the faceplate and face it. Turn it over and face the other side. Last operation drill out the bolt holes. Should now be parallel and true.

    Bob
    I don't have a faceplate.

  7. #47
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    Dec 2006
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    A older or abused chuck can have the jaws not parallel with the ways as it is tighten the block can be pulled slightly off the chuck. Use feeler gages to check that the block is indeed seated against the chuck. It will not hurt to put a small hole in the center to start your lathe tool from.

    Bob

  8. #48
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    Sep 2012
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    My chuck is pretty much brand new. Probably has 10 hours of use if that.

  9. #49
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    In that case you should have no problem. Remember to set speed for the 6.5" diameter.

    Bob

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Fort Bragg, CA
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    Now I just have to tram it.

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