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Thread: Bandsaw wander

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Posts
    280

    Post Bandsaw wander

    After several years of use, my chinese vertical/horizontal bandsaw has started to wander, i.e., the cut is not vertical. What is the cause/cure for this? The machine has roller guides that cannot be rotated. One more question: when adjusting blade tension, how tight is right?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Posts
    484

    Post

    They can't be rotated like say a Marvel #8, but they can be tightened. Should be an eccentric on roller mounts, also the bearing guides might be getting worn some.

    I got rid of my horz. vert. taiwan bandsaw when I got my big power hacksaw, can't remember exact particulars, do remember having to do some file work to get blade guides to line up just so-so. Really not bad saws, but that Marvel power hacksaw doesn't break blades very often.

    How tight, how strong are you, as amall as the tightener is on these saws torque it down good, within reason.

    I've seen lots of wandering problems caused by under tightened blades. It makes a big difference having enough tension.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Posts
    1,241

    Post

    Say, I've had that problem, and it has been a worn saw blade.
    Replace blade, problem solved, has been my experience.

    They wear unevenly, and then wander towards the sharper side cuz it's still cutting.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Posts
    389

    Post

    You might try a different blade! Also adjust the guides so that they're close as possible to the cut. If the roller bearings are not turning,take them off and see if they need cleaning.Then replace them so that they are tight against the blade. Like Halfnut says,the rollers are adjustable,on an eccentric bolt. Tighten the blade so that it doesn't slip on the drive wheel. No need to crank it up too tight.

  5. #5

    Post

    Me too. I ended up by replacing the roller bearings in the guides. They get a groove worn into them and don't work too well. Get one out and order from a local bearing house by number. About $4 ea. as I remember.
    To know by reading is different than knowing by doing. OR:
    What you have going into a situation is knowlege..What you have coming out of that situation (providing you survive!) is wisdom.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Posts
    384

    Post

    My book says 1 thou clearance between blade and roller. On each end, one roller is stationary, the other is on an eccentric. Mike

  7. #7

    Wink

    Never start a new blade in the existing kerf - begin a new cut. Otherwise you strip the "set" out of the blade and it still cuts crooked. Total waste of a new blade - DOH!!!


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Kirkland, Washington
    Posts
    937

    Post

    If your blade/band is sharp and of good quality and if your band is tensioned enough, the guides are almost not needed for cutting straight. The guides are needed to cut curves. If it is a horizontal saw the guides are neede to turn the blade in reference to the drive wheels. If it is a horizontal saw the hinge bearings for the head is also9 a source of problems.
    In the US as well as Canada and for that matter the rest of the world THRUD is dead right about NEVER start a new blade in an existing kerf. This even holds true for hacksaws. Next time I will tell you how they named Canada.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Posts
    29

    Post

    I seem to recall a HSM or MW article on how to build a very simple but effective guide to set the blade vertically. Improved mine quite a bit. Only requires 2 short pieces of 1/2" stock and a pair of screws. I epoxied in a small piece of shim stock (= to blade thickness)to make it easier to use.

    HWEvers

  10. #10

    Wink

    On second thought you may want to buy Bandsaw one of those training collars to keep him doo-dooing in your own yard instead of other peoples.

    I own a cat. 50x smarter than a dog.

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