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Thread: Shim for barrel timing?????

  1. #11

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    Assuming you have a coil spring High Wall, I don't see why the barrel has to be set up so tight that it squeaks. The Stevens 44 1/2 rifles were designed to be taken down by unscrewing the barrel by hand, with only a setscrew to maintain index, and they were well respected for their accuracy. I have several, and can confirm that they are inherently accurate. I set up my barrels so that it takes only about 1/4 of a flat (12 degrees) from finger tight to fully indexed. Torque needed is two hands and a firm grip. Never use a wrench on them. I should admit that I am shooting relatively small cartridges in them, (.22 Hornet, .22-3000 Lovell), or soft loads in the .32-40 and .32 Ideal.

    I'd have no qualms about using Loctite on your High Wall.

    The flat spring High Walls I think are a different animal. There, the barrel/receiver joint is being continually flexed by the hammer spring. I'd set those up very tight.
    Last edited by uscra112; 07-20-2017 at 04:57 AM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Kiwi living in New Zealand
    Posts
    9

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    Yep, had the same problem with my Sharps build, all nicely fitted and head spaced but a .020" gap between action and barrel, So made up a .025" washer and snugged it up tight, no problems. Homebrew.357.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Central Kentucky
    Posts
    2,737

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    Hi folks, thanks for the replies and advice! Sorry about the late response but I have been out of circulation for the last several months dealing with a severe back injury but I am up and around now and anxious to finish this project.

  4. #14

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    Blue Locktite is your friend!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    1

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    An old friend of mine in OK told me one of the niftiest ways to make a fine shim exactly the size OD and ID you need.

    Take some steel of the type suitable to you and bore the ID a few thou over what the thread OD is (or whatever the OD is of your part). The set your boring bar out to the width you want the shim and bore through again.

    That "ring" you've always found down in your swarf when you bored something now has a use and is sized for yours.

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