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Thread: Workshop Projects.

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    New Jersey
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    That's a fine vise and a fine restoration job.

    For future videos though either bypass the wire wheel and similar work or at least speed up the work segment by 4x. I valued the little breaks you took to explain things and noted how well it worked at the reduced speed. But watching you actually doing the wire wheel work was not adding anything to the video other than run time.
    Looking back at the video, I agree. Thank you for pointing that out. I will be making another in the Shop video soon and will take this to heart and reduce the size of the video.
    12x16" Delta 3d printer (Built from scratch)
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  2. #12
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    Mar 2002
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    Kirkland, Washington
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    I have a Parker #104 that was a gift. Everything works except the Jaws do not close face to face. When closed tight there is about 1/16 inch of "daylight" across the bottom of the Jaws. The movable jaw is 90 degrees to the ram.
    I would like to remove the Jaws and clean up/re-machine so the vise is usable. There are no visible screws holding the Jaws on. Any ideas on Jaw removal? The jaws are the same as the ones onthe vise at the start of this thread.

    Thanks in advance
    Pete

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Chilliwack, BC, Canada
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    It wasn't really the length of the video. It's the "value per viewing minute". I'll happily watch an hour long video if it's got lots of good information coming at me. The "skip foward'itis" starts when I have to watch stuff that we all know how to do and there's no new wrinkle to it.

    For example, you mentioned a lower speed motor for the wire brush. That perked my ears up. Then you showed the first parts being brushed clean and how it handled. That too was well worth the time. And to me it sure seemed like it brushed the parts clean more easily. Or perhaps it was better because the lower speed allowed you to use more pressure? But once the demo was done and the point well reinforced the rest of it could have been run through at 4x speed or even skipped altogether.

    Other than this one niggle though I really did like the video. The rest of it was nicely shot, nicely lit, well framed and you your overdubbed voice was clear and well spoken with the points presented well without a lot of filler. All in all a really great job. And I'm looking forward to seeing more videos from you.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    N.J.
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    682

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stepside View Post
    I have a Parker #104 that was a gift. Everything works except the Jaws do not close face to face. When closed tight there is about 1/16 inch of "daylight" across the bottom of the Jaws. The movable jaw is 90 degrees to the ram.
    I would like to remove the Jaws and clean up/re-machine so the vise is usable. There are no visible screws holding the Jaws on. Any ideas on Jaw removal? The jaws are the same as the ones onthe vise at the start of this thread.

    Thanks in advance
    Pete
    Two taper pins in each jaw. The hole to drive them out will be visible under the jaw casting. The jaws are then slid off.

  5. #15
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    Mar 2002
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    Kirkland, Washington
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    Reggie

    The holes were you said they would be. In this case the pins were straight with the middle part deformed. It took a bit of work to get them out By the look of it, my vise would most probably be older that the one that started this thread. It is highly possible that somebody in the past had the jaws off and lost the taper pins.

    Thanks for the information,

    Pete

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    127

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stepside View Post
    Reggie

    The holes were you said they would be. In this case the pins were straight with the middle part deformed. It took a bit of work to get them out By the look of it, my vise would most probably be older that the one that started this thread. It is highly possible that somebody in the past had the jaws off and lost the taper pins.

    Thanks for the information,

    Pete
    As stated above, the jaws are secured with taper pins, and you better have a nicely hardened, not too hard punch to drive them out. I did not mention in the video but I shattered an overly hard punch trying to drive them out. Then I realized that the jaws were in decent shape and I may as well clean them in place. As for the jaws being out of line, is it wear or warped jaws? Sounds like there is allot of abuse on that vise.
    12x16" Delta 3d printer (Built from scratch)
    Logan 825 - work in progress
    My Blog - http://engineerd3d.ddns.net/
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  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    New Jersey
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    It wasn't really the length of the video. It's the "value per viewing minute". I'll happily watch an hour long video if it's got lots of good information coming at me. The "skip foward'itis" starts when I have to watch stuff that we all know how to do and there's no new wrinkle to it.

    For example, you mentioned a lower speed motor for the wire brush. That perked my ears up. Then you showed the first parts being brushed clean and how it handled. That too was well worth the time. And to me it sure seemed like it brushed the parts clean more easily. Or perhaps it was better because the lower speed allowed you to use more pressure? But once the demo was done and the point well reinforced the rest of it could have been run through at 4x speed or even skipped altogether.

    Other than this one niggle though I really did like the video. The rest of it was nicely shot, nicely lit, well framed and you your overdubbed voice was clear and well spoken with the points presented well without a lot of filler. All in all a really great job. And I'm looking forward to seeing more videos from you.
    First of all thank you for the encouragement, I assure you your criticism was taken as constructive and not in a negative way.

    As for the low speed grinder 1750rpm I think. Yes I am a firm believer in the low and slow grinder as it allows me to control the heat as well as the pressure on the work better. I used to own a high speed (3600rpm I belive) grinder. All it did was shake the table and burn my fingers when I tried to grind out metal and it also flung wires when I mounted a wire brush. I found this poor thing about a year or so back. It was given to me and the cord was a fire hazard. I replaced the cord and used a degreaser to clean up the motor. I replaced the wire brush and remounted the stone which still rang to it.

    With all of that said, I am planing on making a rest for this grinder as well as making some shields for the wheels to control the dust and increase the safety of it. I know its allot of work but its worth it to me as they no longer make 1750rpm grinders for a reasonable price in this size. Most are between 3k-5k RPM's when you go for under 8" wheels. This machine also has a certain look that I like and the fact that it was made in the USA puts the icing on the cake.
    12x16" Delta 3d printer (Built from scratch)
    Logan 825 - work in progress
    My Blog - http://engineerd3d.ddns.net/
    Youtube Channel - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVY...view_as=public
    Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/engineerd3d/?hl=en

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