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Thread: How are these mounted and how can I remove them

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    san jose, ca. usa
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    Default How are these mounted and how can I remove them

    I bought a bunch of these and from what I can see you mount them in a collet to drive them, but how can I remove them to mount them on r8 arbors or something else I can use

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    The ones I can see clearly Two center at top) seem to be tapers, most likely Jacobs tapers of some size.

    They are generally removed with pairs of wedges. Each size arbor/taper takes a different wedge size (of course).
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
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    The micro-chuck, top left, might be a fixed shank, but as Jerry says all others are JT shanks and are removeable with wedges. Wedges are available from suppliers who handle Jacobs chucks.
    Jim H.

  4. #4
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    Before going any further, check if any would fit a drill press or lathe tailstock if you have either of these.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    13,279

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    OK out with it - quite the selection and high quality stuff - so what did you pay?

  6. #6
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    They all look like straight shanks. Slide them into the correct size R8 collet as you would an end-mill or drill bit.
    Work hard play hard

  7. #7
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    May 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3 Phase Lightbulb View Post
    They all look like straight shanks. Slide them into the correct size R8 collet as you would an end-mill or drill bit.
    I agree for the most part although I might go for more ridged on that one massive on - drill chucks should not have to deal with a whole lot of side loads anyways but as the drill size increases and if your trying to keep the hole fairly true it does help to have some beef where the chuck mounts esp. if it's a shorter precision drill and not a jobber...

    chuck to R/8 arbors are very ridged

  8. #8
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    Mar 2005
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    Toronto
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    what a great buy - Albrecht and Rohm are as good as it gets. I would leave them, they are just as handy if not more so than an R8 as very often you already have the collet in place in the mill. A shaft like that is plenty strong enough for those imo.

    If you do want to remove them, to put one on an MT arbor for say the drill press, generally you use wedges. Jacobs makes a set that has various sizes will take most chucks off - or you can make your own, but the Jacobs are of something tough and they last.
    .

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    It's nice to have a super ridged one for when you have to use an endmill. ---------------------------- wait for it ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- just kidding

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by A.K. Boomer View Post
    I agree for the most part although I might go for more ridged on that one massive on - drill chucks should not have to deal with a whole lot of side loads anyways but as the drill size increases and if your trying to keep the hole fairly true it does help to have some beef where the chuck mounts esp. if it's a shorter precision drill and not a jobber...

    chuck to R/8 arbors are very ridged
    They all look like 1/2" or smaller capacity chucks. Either way, IMO R8 collets should be more than sufficient. I believe that's exactly what those straight shank arbors that are currently installed on the chucks pictured above are designed for.
    Work hard play hard

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