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Thread: Marking barrels with caliber designation

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    793

    Default

    Hmm, I'll have to look into those, thanks!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,148

    Default

    I have the inexpensive etchomatic, and with some practice, a very nice lettering can be done. I use the blue waxy type paper they sell, and type it out on a cheap electric type writer. I cut the typed letters to a strip, then tape the appear where I want it, top and bottom. I first use the supplied diode to get an "etch", then take the diode off and use the felt direct on the paper. Let it soak there for a minute or so, and you're done. Nice deep letters. You have to keeep the paper in place.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    3

    Default Registering hand stamps

    Quote Originally Posted by Forestgnome View Post
    Metal stamps and a hammer.
    If you are going to use hand stamps and a hammer, make yourself a simple stamp guide. Make a bracket to bolt/clamp onto your mill quill. Then weld on a block of steel that you can mill a verticle slot that fits the size stamps you have. hold the stamp in the slot with your thumb and tap with hammer. Crank the right amount travel on the milling table and stamp the next number. It looks like you did it with a typewriter.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    6

    Default

    I take the barrel to a trophy shop & have them engrave the caliber on it.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    South Louisiana
    Posts
    534

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    1,209

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rock View Post
    If you are going to use hand stamps and a hammer, make yourself a simple stamp guide. Make a bracket to bolt/clamp onto your mill quill. Then weld on a block of steel that you can mill a verticle slot that fits the size stamps you have. hold the stamp in the slot with your thumb and tap with hammer. Crank the right amount travel on the milling table and stamp the next number. It looks like you did it with a typewriter.
    That's the way I do it. That way you can make practice runs and figure out the spacing. You can also make a printout of what you're going to stamp and tape it on the piece for correct kerning. For 1/16" stamps I use 7pt font if I remember correctly.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Cumberland, Maine
    Posts
    97

    Default

    Perhaps a pantograph?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Russellville, AR
    Posts
    1,139

    Default

    Stamp guides work better if the stamps are precision made to have the figures accurately aligned with the side that is against the guide. Lower priced stamps will have some figures that do not line up, using the guide will give a "drunken" alignment.

    If you do not want to spend the extra to get stamps that are accurately aligned, you can spend several hours modifying a cheaper set by drawfiling the side that aligns with the guide. In some instances you might want to add material to that side with epoxy and shims to avoid having to remove material from many other stamps. Start by stamping using the guide and all of the stamps in the set to determine which stamps need altering. If you are very lucky none of the characters will lean forward or backward from perpendicular, which would require removing more metal from one edge than the other.

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