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Thread: All-in-one LED bike light for my commuter

  1. #31
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    3 out of 4 parts are currently in the anodising tank. Thorough cleaning with acetone first then Dawn dish soap until they pass the water break test. You can't see them very well, but hydrogen bubbles are coming up from the anode.


    broader pic of set up. Bubbles visible in this pic and the next are from a couple of weighted loops of tubing fed by a fish tank aerator. In the anodising tank that stops the part heating up and burning, in the dye tank is just aids in having a uniform temperature.


    dye tank is coming up to temperature, should be at 140F by now


    nice'n'cold anodising tank. I have a bunch of old ice packs I keep in the freezer. I stick them in the tank first thing and by the time I've finished puttering around, the tank is a good cold temperature. They're back in the freezer so that I can stick them in again before anodising the housing.


    20 minutes until they come out and into the dye tank, so I better start cleaning the housing. This is where I rue making so many grooves for cooling as they take an age to clean properly.

  2. #32
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    those parts are now anodised - you can see that they've turned a slight golden grey colour



    20min in the dye tank then 5min steam/5min boil in water on the hob and they're done


    not industry standard perfect, as they're a little patchy in places, but good enough for me!

  3. #33
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    You seem to have a regular anodizing line set up.

    Good looking result.
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  4. #34
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    Aug 2018
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    You might want to look at "electronic goldmine", they were offering some ultrabright amber leds at a redi ulous price.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Tiers View Post
    You seem to have a regular anodizing line set up.

    Good looking result.
    thanks JT, it's a hand me down from a grad student I knew through the machine shop at Penn State. He did a lot of high power laser optic research, so he machined and anodised alot of housings and the like. When he graduated his PI told him he didn't want the anodising set up cluttering up the lab, so he gave it to me. I've carried it with me through a couple of moves and now that I'm going to be in one place I've got the liquids set up. Right now I'm anodising some mudguard brackets for my bike. Not because I especially want to, but the stuff is set up, so I might as well!

    Quote Originally Posted by Corbettprime View Post
    You might want to look at "electronic goldmine", they were offering some ultrabright amber leds at a redi ulous price.
    that is a cool website, thanks for the heads up. Lots of hard to find SMD LEDs, which are really good for arrays and indicator lights. The ones I'll be using are much higher power and with a narrower emitting angle, so they work better with optics for spot lighting.

    Finished the housing




    I think it turned out pretty well.

    Tomorrow I'll transfer the components off of one driver onto my dual channel driver board and see if I can remember how to program the things. If that all goes well, the rest is plain sailing and I should have it done by the evening. If not, well...

  6. #36
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    That looks great, but we wanna see LIGHT!

  7. #37
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    Oct 2012
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    getting there. Just figured out which components from a commercial driver go to which spots on my new driver board. Some of them are seriously small. Once I finish my coffee I'll lift them off the old one and reflow them onto the new one, then test out the current firmware and after that try and remember how to flash my firmware onto the chip. Once all that's done it's a fairly simple case of wiring everything up in place.

    Fingers crossed by this evening!

  8. #38
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    well that turned out to be a bit optimistic! Had a major issue programming the ATtiny13 chip on the driver, in the end I had to do it off the board and then solder it back on, but the light is now finished. Time for a R+C to celebrate!

    reflowing the components off a standard linear driver onto my 2 channel driver board



    didn't work straight off as I put the reverse protection diode (small black thing at top right) on the wrong way round, doh. Driver worked with the original firmware for use with a clicky switch, but when I flashed my firmware for using a momentary switch it didn't work. After around 24h I figured out that there must have been something on the various boards that I had that was screwing with the programmer as programming the chip in free air was fine.

    ta da!


    batteries, charger, switch and LEDs wired up to a JST plug


    I was worried about the batteries shifting with road vibration but they're not going anywhere. Everything is jammed in super tight in there (note to self, leave more clearance in the plans next time!).

  9. #39
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    LED wiring. XP-L (2?) at the top, XM-L2 at the bottom. Both 5000K I think.


    driver attached to bottom cover (nice big heatsink for it in effect) with the other half of the JST plug


    about to be sealed up. Turned out kinda tight in there, but it's solid and nothing moves when you shake it which is a good sign


    front cover on with light on low. The lexan around a couple of the screw holes had slight cracks after tightening it down (the lenses are probably every so slightly proud of the body) but the seal is good.

  10. #40
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    beamshot inside my garage (too lazy to go ride somewhere dark to take a pic) on medium. Nice upper cut off, hopefully it'll reduce glare for oncoming road users but still give me enough reach to be useful at speed.


    plugged in and charging


    front view


    off to go sit on the couch and have a drink

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