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Thread: Large diameter pipe tailstock support?

  1. #11
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    I made a reasonable pipe center, by turning a center recess in a large piece of round stock, making the recess big enough to swallow nearly all of the live center's cone.

    Then turning the reverse to a conical shape produced a "center" that could be added to the existing center to become a "pipe center". With nearly the whole live center cone inside the added part, it was quite stable.

    Not my idea, I read it somewhere, but I have forgotten where.
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  2. #12
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    The 11 x 20 Standard Modern lathe I purchased a few years ago did not come with a steady rest so I got the casting kit from MLA. It can handle 6" diameter tube (wouldn't be too comfortable with a solid bar of that size). It is designed around a 9" swing lathe so I added a rising block. It was a fun project - I have added bronze rubbing pads since this photo was taken.




    For reference the chuck is 5" diameter.

    Geoff
    Last edited by ammcoman2; 11-08-2018 at 07:49 PM.

  3. #13
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    Bullnose centers wouldn't allow facing the ends. How would you adjust the screws in an internal spider? It seems to me the easy way is a scroll chuck that would run true when you tighten it.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toolguy View Post
    Bullnose centers wouldn't allow facing the ends. How would you adjust the screws in an internal spider? It seems to me the easy way is a scroll chuck that would run true when you tighten it.
    Small scroll chuck is easier than spider without a doubt.

    As for adjusting the internal spider screws: shouldn't be too difficult to fit in a small open-end wrench to turn from hex "body" on the screw. You can tighten the screws only about quarter turn at a time but you shouldn't need much tghtening after finger-tight.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattiJ View Post
    As for adjusting the internal spider screws: shouldn't be too difficult to fit in a small open-end wrench to turn from hex "body" on the screw. You can tighten the screws only about quarter turn at a time but you shouldn't need much tghtening after finger-tight.
    I've made mine with four screws and some with six. On thin wall tubing the more contact points the better. You're right, not much more than hand tight will hold the tube in place. I use hex head screws, with the heads filed to a somewhat spherical crown. I've also incorporated the screws into a spider for the backing plate at the chuck end when using outside jaws. This helps control distortion on thin wall tubes, especially if a six jaw chuck is not available.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattiJ View Post
    Umm, your link shows 3" diameter bull nose and I was interested in pipes OVER 4" diameter

    Yes, I could make my own 5" bull nose too..
    So buy a larger one? Like I said, it was a random link, just one of the first that came up. Larger bull nose centers are available. Pretty sure the MT2 version I'm using is 4" or 4.5".

  7. #17
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    I am not sure it's a spider, could be wrong., i thought cat head..... but may that is the name for the outside of pipe or shaft model.

  8. #18
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    Cathead gets used alot re rifle barrels. Good google image search 'lathe cathead'.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 754 View Post
    I am not sure it's a spider, could be wrong., i thought cat head..... but may that is the name for the outside of pipe or shaft model.
    I see cathead/spider used pretty much interchangeably. Dunno what is what and absolutely no idea if there is better name for "internal spider"
    Maybe I should call it "internal spider" if it has 8 adjustable supports and "internal ant" if it has 6 supports... cat head? no idea

  10. #20
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