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Thread: Cheap DRO

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by CCWKen View Post
    I bought the cheap seats too for my mill. As already mentioned, the manual (or lack thereof) is typically the only fault with them. But so many of them are alike, you can print a manual from the interweb to get by. And there's plenty of YouTube stuff out there now.

    A note to make your wise; You will have to give the length of the scales you want. Be sure you understand how to measure for the scales. Some vendors want total length some want travel length. There is a HUGE difference. Measure accurately, in millimeters.


    Did you put a Z scale on the knee? If not, did you look into getting a compatible Z-scale for the quill so that you can get X+Y+Quill on the same DRO? I had a separate Z-scale like yours on my 1st manual Bridgeport with a separate X/Y Heidenhain and always wished I had a 3-axis DRO with Quill. Looks like you can do that, unless you are already using the Z channel on the knee?
    Work hard play hard

  2. #22
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    I have the Z-scale on the knee. It's more accurate than the slider on the quill. That piece of crap will get replaced if I can find a better one--One that keeps zero and doesn't eat a battery overnight (almost).

    Hmmmmmm. I just noticed I need to take some updated pictures of the ole BP.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Toronto Ontario Canada
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    Default Purely on impulse---

    Quote Originally Posted by ken View Post
    any one use any of the cheap 200-300$ dros off Ebay reports good or bad Thanks ken
    I usually visit Busy Bee tools in Pickering Ontario whenever I go for a dentists appointment.
    When I went in 2 days ago I noticed they had Igaging readouts on sale, I bought 2, a 12" and a6" for the grand total of 117$ Canadian.
    They are now fitted on my Myford ML10. in place of the 1" travel dial gauges I used previously.
    I realise they are NOT first quality items, but from the specs and checks I did I expect that they will fill my needs adequately.
    I will report on any problems I meet. Regards David Powell

  4. #24
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    Dec 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by CCWKen View Post
    I have the Z-scale on the knee. It's more accurate than the slider on the quill. That piece of crap will get replaced if I can find a better one--One that keeps zero and doesn't eat a battery overnight (almost).

    Hmmmmmm. I just noticed I need to take some updated pictures of the ole BP.


    I have a cheap quill dro thingy too. Does your have the mini usb plug on it? I guess you can plug power into that usb plug to power the dro and not have to worry about batteries. I found out mine doesn't auto-off which is disappointing. I haven't killed a battery yet but I did keep the usb plug accessible so I can plug into it later on if need be. I do plan on doing the x-y-z dro later on as well.

    The picture reminds me I have to pick up tapered head bolts to finish the job yet too.

    Andy

  5. #25
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    No USB port on mine. It's probably 10 years old or more. I bought it way back to use on the lathe cross feed but it was too large. Like 3ph, I rediscovered it in a cabinet and mounted it to the BP mill. I can zero mine, run the quill down to touch off on a part then come back up and the zero is gone. If I run it down to the part again, it has a different reading. I know alignment is critical and I've done that with a test indicator but still no joy.

    I know I can get a Mitutoyo for about $275 but I see a lot of those coming back and sold as used. Hard to tell the fakes from the real, I guess. The one Abomb shows being mounted is different than what's being sold now. What's real any more?

  6. #26
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    So far the one I have is repeating very well. I hope it stays that way for a good long time.
    Andy

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by CCWKen View Post
    No USB port on mine. It's probably 10 years old or more. I bought it way back to use on the lathe cross feed but it was too large. Like 3ph, I rediscovered it in a cabinet and mounted it to the BP mill. I can zero mine, run the quill down to touch off on a part then come back up and the zero is gone. If I run it down to the part again, it has a different reading. I know alignment is critical and I've done that with a test indicator but still no joy.

    I know I can get a Mitutoyo for about $275 but I see a lot of those coming back and sold as used. Hard to tell the fakes from the real, I guess. The one Abomb shows being mounted is different than what's being sold now. What's real any more?
    Do you really use the Z-scale on the knee very much? If not, I'd try and find a smaller compatible quill scale and move your Z axis on the DRO over to your quill.
    Work hard play hard

  8. #28
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    Nov 2010
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    Red Deer, Alberta
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    Hey David,
    I visit my son, daughter in law and grandson in fairly often in Toronto (which is beside the point). But I did the same as you with an igaging scale on the carriage of my 36” lathe. It ‘s not the best but still it works great and I’ve found it to be relatively accurate for my purposes anyway. Cost was quite reasonable too, I forget how much now. I would like to do the cross slide now or perhaps get one of the “cheaper” 2 axis dro’s refferred to above that may be more responsive & perhaps more accurate.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3 Phase Lightbulb View Post
    Do you really use the Z-scale on the knee very much? If not, I'd try and find a smaller compatible quill scale and move your Z axis on the DRO over to your quill.
    I use the Z-scale all the time for milling. I use the quill scale less--Mostly for drilling depth. Swapping wouldn't make sense to me.

  10. #30
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    Dec 2016
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    Got my DRO and I really think I should have ordered the slim magnetic scales
    Oh well, this was expected but mounting the crosslide scale sucks big time.

    Manual was actually very understandable english but bit straightforward with some of the procedures.
    https://i.imgur.com/ZJeHLsO.jpg
    Last edited by MattiJ; 01-09-2019 at 03:23 PM.

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