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Thread: Why even bother anymore with manual machines?

  1. #281
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Northern Indiana


    Quote Originally Posted by Arcane View Post
    I'd love to have a CNC mill but quite frankly the learning curve is beyond my grasp; I just can't remember stuff anymore. I'd also have to replace both my lathe and mill at a relatively big $$$ cost. It would be completely impractical to go to CNC so I stick with what works best for me...manual machines. I should also mention I just don't do all that much machining anymore.
    Too many hours at work, late to the party. But we had a winner long ago! What he said.

  2. #282


    This is how easy a good conversational control can be for simple repetitive jobs.
    The input looks like so for a 1 1/4"-4 TPI acme thread 10 3/8" long.
    0010 The tool change is required otherwise the control will not know what type of tool is being used.
    0020 Is not required I added that in order to stop the tool away from the part so that it will be visually obvious that the tool is in the right place.
    0030 Is not required, it forces a Program stop in order to visually inspect the tool position.
    0040 I the canned thread cycle window, simply enter the thread data that you would use if doing it manually

    Lead .250 (4TPI)
    Thread height .140
    First DOC
    Following DOC's
    Finish passes DOC
    Spring passes at finished depth
    Withdraw clearance is the distance the tool moves away from the OD for chip clearance
    Engage angle is like infeeding from the compound
    Start Z in this case is .200" from the end of the part
    End Z is the length of thread
    Start and End diameters produce a straight thread, tapered pipe threads require different start and end diameters.

    Assuming that you already know how to thread on a manual lathe you have already set the tool X and Z positions and chosen a spindle speed, set the thread depth shallow (say .135") for the first part and push the start button, go and work on something else until it is finished. Measure the part and if the thread is shallow adjust the thread depth and push the start button again, it will run the same part with a slightly deeper thread and repeat this until the correct size is achieved.
    You may also put the spindle out of gear between cuts because it is not a gear train as with a manual machine, an encoder on the spindle synchronizes with the encoder in the Z axis drive so that the thread begins at the same place if the PART is not moved. If however there is a power outage you will have to pick up the thread manually.

    You have entered 15 lines of text and tweaked the program now thread the next 24 parts, this is WAAAAAAY faster then doing it manually and you can do something else while they are running.
    Granted machines with advanced conversational controls are pricey (Mazak's Mazatrol for instance) but you will need to know zero about G-Code to run canned cycles such as ID/OD turning, knurling, grooving and parting off.
    No CAD/CAM system required, no G-Code, if you know the finished dimensions of the part just enter them as points and the control will write the code for you at the machine.

    As an added benefit if the tail stock is slightly off and the part has a taper you may simply adjust the start and end diameters to remove the taper, this is pure GOLD compared to a manual machine.

    Last edited by Bented; 07-11-2019 at 09:03 PM. Reason: another picture

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