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Thread: In search of index plate ideas for lathe chuck

  1. #51
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    That was meant as "evenly spaced", but.....
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  2. #52
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    I really like the concept i in post 19. By making the face of the drum wider it would be possible to get 3 rows of index holes, say 48, 56, 60. That would give you 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 divisions and multiples of those numbers up to the limit of the plate

  3. #53
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    In order to drill 127 holes in an index plate you can calculate the angles required and convert to deg. min. sec. Set it up on the rotary table and dial in each hole location. If you have a DRO with a bolt circle function you can set it up for 127 holes at the radius you specify. The 127 hole plates will likely be larger than what can fit on the dividing head and will probably need to overhang the machine table.

  4. #54
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    It may or may not apply here (and I'm sure other ways are more accurate) but I saw the neatest idea on a home improvement show years ago, when faced with a similar problem: the contractor had to evenly and accurately space on odd number of balusters in an odd-numbered space. He took a length of elastic waist band from a fabric and sewing supply, and marked out the proper number of spaces on it with his tape measure. One end of the elastic was tacked down and then it was stretched to fill the space and make the end line up. He got essentially perfect spacing all the way down because the elastic stretched in a constant way. I wonder if something similar could be done here, wrapping a piece of rubber or elastic around a chuck, after making marks on it....

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickel-city-fab View Post
    It may or may not apply here (and I'm sure other ways are more accurate) but I saw the neatest idea on a home improvement show years ago, when faced with a similar problem: the contractor had to evenly and accurately space on odd number of balusters in an odd-numbered space. He took a length of elastic waist band from a fabric and sewing supply, and marked out the proper number of spaces on it with his tape measure. One end of the elastic was tacked down and then it was stretched to fill the space and make the end line up. He got essentially perfect spacing all the way down because the elastic stretched in a constant way. I wonder if something similar could be done here, wrapping a piece of rubber or elastic around a chuck, after making marks on it....
    Paper strip mentioned by J Tiers works probably better in most cases. More measurements to make but way more accurate than stretching a rubber band.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickel-city-fab View Post
    It may or may not apply here (and I'm sure other ways are more accurate) but I saw the neatest idea on a home improvement show years ago, when faced with a similar problem: the contractor had to evenly and accurately space on odd number of balusters in an odd-numbered space. He took a length of elastic waist band from a fabric and sewing supply, and marked out the proper number of spaces on it with his tape measure. One end of the elastic was tacked down and then it was stretched to fill the space and make the end line up. He got essentially perfect spacing all the way down because the elastic stretched in a constant way. I wonder if something similar could be done here, wrapping a piece of rubber or elastic around a chuck, after making marks on it....
    So many variables with rubber that I sure would not trust it. The elastic strip would be better I think due to how it's more consistently woven on the machines. But rubber bands or inner tube rubber is no where near that nicely made. And we've already got Blocklayer's graduated paper tape which can be adjusted to just wrap around any diameter we put into the box and have a far better option.

    And for those that can do 2D CAD it would be simple to do up an array of evenly spaced hack marks of the proper number and expand that set of lines out to the length of the circumference we want and get consistent enough markings again.

  7. #57
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    I pressed on a dividing head plate onto the back of my spindle and adapted a plunger to hold it.
    Another way that I have always thought looked good was actually drilling the back edge of the chuck with however many holes you want, and make a plunger that interfaces. I went the way I did because I can index no matter what I have mounted for workholding.

  8. #58
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    This actually comes up a few times a year at work. No, we do NOT have DRO's or CAD in the fab shop. You know what I use? A pair of dividers and some math to figure the chord length per division. If I'm just drilling pipe flange holes, a tape measure is good enough. If it has to be good (shaft coupling) then I'll use a mic to set the divider points.

  9. #59
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    Dec 2007
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    I watched this video last night, looks good to me. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pTzyzqRcmao

  10. #60
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    There is a dividing head attachment to fit to Myford lathes which illustrates one way it can be done: http://www.myford-lathes.com/accessories6.html

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