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Thread: South Bend 9 owners, a question please?

  1. #1
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    Default South Bend 9 owners, a question please?

    So I've been helping a buddy with building his shop/garage for a while now when he needed an extra hand. It's been a bit of fun and adventure but he's done to the point that we're moving in his tools and machines. So he's got an SB 9a with the undercabinet motor and drive. And while cleaning and assembling the parts I noticed that the compound was very loose. And then I noticed that there's no locking nuts on the gib screws. And in fact the screws are only flush to the side of the body. And the cross slide is the same way.

    He's going to find the size and buy some longer allen set screws and nuts to replace all these short slotted screws. At least then the adjustments will stay set.

    So what gives here? How does one keep them correctly snugged and adjusted? Or is this a pretty common "upgrade mod"?

    It's my first time getting close to an SB9 since high school. I can see why they are so popular as a compact hobby size lathe. Good stocky head shaft size and decently sized gears and a well in proportion bed. In fact the carriage, cross slide and compound all seem a touch small and out of scale to the rest of the machine. Not by a whole lot, mind you. but if the carriage and upper setup had another 7 to 10 lbs of iron spread around to upsize all the parts it would be perfectly OK.

  2. #2
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    Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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    Default

    I have the same problem on my 9" SB. I've been too lazy to fix it but other than going the route your friend plans I've often thought something like Vibra-Tite would be worth trying.

  3. #3
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    Yes, mine has flush screws and no locking nuts either. I adjusted them and have not had any particular problems with them. But YMMV.
    Paul A.

    Make it fit.
    You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

  4. #4
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    Missouri
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    Default

    I have not had one for several years, but the one I refurbished and sold back then had no locknuts, and the setscrews were indeed flush or slightly below flush. I do not recall it being a problem. Thre seemed to be enough thread in the casting that friction kept the screws from backing out.

    Vibra-Tite would indeed seem to be another method of ensuring security. It works pretty well. I prefer it to any of the loctite products for screw retention when it can be used
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Long Island, N.Y.
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    Default

    This is what was on my Atlas:


    I added holes for 2 more gib screws:


    I turned down some caphead screws:


    And wound up with this:


    Here's the thread with the rest of the pictures:
    http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/thr...as-10-topslide

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Default

    It’s never been a problem for me on mine. In fact its nice to be able to adjust the gibs easily.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Some of the screws are not floppy but they are free spinning. The others are actually quite floppy in the threads of the body. As in I'd adjust one and move the compound back and forth to settle and feel the adjustment. But as I wound the top slide in and out I was watching the set screw I just tweaked walking itself around and back to loose. And yes, there is a slight amount of following by the gib during this.

    So I look online at Vibra-Tite and it appears to be just another thread locker. But is it different from equivalent strength Loctite and it stays equally grabby after curing and for some range of adjustment? Loctite isn't any good as it takes a good torque to break free and it has some retention for small amounts of movement. But even going back and forth half a turn a couple of times and it's gone or near enough to gone. Is the Vibra-Tite much the same?

    I'm going to suggest the allen key setscrews and to either buy a suitable size ignition wrench with a box end or to make up a "wrench" from a cut off socket pressed into a short length of flat bar. The open end will allow the allen key to sit in the center screw for adjusting and then hold it while the locknut is pinched to hold it. Much the same idea as adjustable rocker arm setting with a wrench and driver. At least that'll be the plan unless another suitable option comes up.

  8. #8
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    Apr 2017
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    Kelowna BC
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    I don't recall my SB9 having nuts, nor backing out.
    Will take a look soon.
    FwIW, my boring head that I used a lot, only had 3 screws and no locks, and that was not a problem.,

    I am starting to think you have a bent threaded shaft if you see screws moving while cranking.,
    Last edited by 754; 01-08-2019 at 03:19 AM.

  9. #9
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    Well then perhaps the proper question is ... How easily do these adjusting screws turn you your lathes?

    LIke there's a number of things that can be done to make them drag enough. The proper "soft and gummy" thread locking compound, bruising the thread so they bind with enough drag to not move on their own or maybe some other way. But in this case they are clean and oily and as mentioned a few of them are rather sloppy in their threaded holes. Like not sloppy to the point there's any risk of stripping out. But not really "precision" either.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    371

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    "Rather sloppy" I suppose a slight bruise should work cause its not like you would be messing with them every day. I have two long bed 9As 1941 & 1942 not a problem although they are
    not tight but tight enough. maybe new screws or maybe brass metric ? I would prefer longer
    screws with lock nuts myself......sam

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