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Thread: Shortening MT-3 arbor

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Artful Bodger View Post
    What I do.... I wind out the tailstock ram until the overlong arbor will fit in neatly and at that point I read the tailstock graduations and use that as the measure of what to cut off the tang.

    When I do that the arbor ejects when the tailstock ram is wound out to zero.
    This is the obvious answer. Works every time since it measures the amount of interference. It's the technique I used.
    There is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Tiers View Post
    I do not think this can be answered adequately without pictures of it in place in the T/S, and also by itself to see what it looks like.
    Pictures may not help either.
    Len

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by QSIMDO View Post
    Pictures may not help either.
    Well, it seems strange that the arbor sticks out 1.5" if that was what you meant, but it seems just as strange that it would FIT the taper, and yet force the ram to stick out 1.5". I have some that cause the ram to have to be out maybe a half inch, but nothing close to one and a half.

    So I figured pics would show what the heck was the deal.....

    Do any OTHER tailstock tooling items stick out that far? If not, what's different about this one?
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Tiers View Post
    I do not think this can be answered adequately without pictures of it in place in the T/S, and also by itself to see what it looks like.
    I agree. On my Clausing TS the MT arbors with tangs pop when the quill is at 5/8" . Some other dead centers without tangs won't pop until the quill is fully retracted. I've had a couple that won't pop at all. I ground the OD's for proper fit.

    JL....

  5. #15
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    Most likely, he has a tailstock quill that normally protrudes some before it gets to the engraved scale. One of mine has the "zero" of the scale 1/2 of an inch from the end of the quill. The other has it just 1/8th inch. Add the 1/2 inch to the 3/4 inch of the tang and you have some impressive stick-out.

    Dan
    There is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.

  6. #16
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    Yes, and a picture could confirm that.

    Words are often not enough, because the things that "need not be mentioned" are visible, making much clear that was not understandable from the words alone.
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  7. #17
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    I had the same problem on my G0602 tailstock as several others have .don't remember off the top of my head but I looked up what others had done and cut off just past the tang and got lucky it was right first cut. I've found at least on Chinese machines there isn't much of the taper that actually engages .I've covered a couple pieces with die to see how much they engage and almost every one has a small line that engages the taper and not much else. I was pretty surprised how little engagement there is especially after being told tapers should have close to 70 percent or more engagement I haven't found anything close to that

  8. #18
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    Since it has now been revealed as a Chinese 12in lathe tailstock you should look at the John Stevenson lever feed modification before attacking the tools. That modification shifts the barrel to the right. Even if you don't do the whole mod now you could do part of it to cure your problem for the time being.
    Last edited by Baz; 01-12-2019 at 03:57 PM.

  9. #19
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    The principal is the same whatever the size of the Morse Taper, you morons.

  10. #20
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    Even easier mod is to get 4 longer M6 cap head screws make a spacer to shift the handwheel bracket part 710 an inch to the right. Having looked at the 4003 manual it was interesting to see that it has a thrust bearing on the tailstock unlike the other 12in lathes I've looked at - a provision for the target users drilling long holes I guess.

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