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Thread: DIY 2x72 belt grinder build.

  1. #131
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    Jun 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by vpt View Post
    Ah, I think I see what you're getting at, machined from a solid billet? Aluminum or stainless?
    Come on, you want maximum rigidity right? How about you do it proper and carve it from a billet of sapphire?

  2. #132
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    Oct 2012
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    Dang, that's looking good! I'd be worried about disappointing Black Forest with your rapid progress. I think that you should slow it down a bit

  3. #133
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    Jan 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    Dang, that's looking good! I'd be worried about disappointing Black Forest with your rapid progress. I think that you should slow it down a bit
    NO no I am not disappointed. He is doing just fine. Except he has his gas strut mounted upside down. What a dumb ass! Everybody knows the rod needs to point up. Really, no joke.
    How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

  4. #134
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    Dec 2009
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    Stevens Point, WI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Forest View Post
    NO no I am not disappointed. He is doing just fine. Except he has his gas strut mounted upside down. What a dumb ass! Everybody knows the rod needs to point up. Really, no joke.
    Thats how they ingest dirt and die.
    Andy

  5. #135
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob La Londe View Post
    Tread mill motors are very popular for this sort of build. If you actually scrap a treadmill they usually have a speed controller that works. Usually there is a fancy control head unit, but you can just use a POT for speed control on the input control leads to the speed controller. 5K pots seem to be the choice for these. I've got one with a 5K pot on it, but it seems to not have a fine enough speed control. I'm going to try a 10K POT on it. Basically its the same as a 0-5 or 0-10 input signal except the speed controller provides its own signal power source and you use the POT as a voltage divider.

    You can find treadmill motors and speed controllers on Ebay all the time.

    I'm pretty sure they are square wave pulse output. The idea of pulse is you have full power, but at short intervals. I was told its more energy efficient and the motor runs cooler. The first time I ran across this sort of thing personally was a Minn Kota Maximizer speed control for a 12 volt trolling motor when I was a kid. I know the battery life was a lot longer at medium and low speeds. I think most modern high end trolling motors use this sort of technology built in today.
    Pulse width is the best way to maintain power over the speed range. The cheap and dirty is like a triac lamp dimmer. It chops out pieces of the sine wave. They are not good low end but a resistor is worse. Going to 10k won't give finer control.If somebody has to go that route, a multi turn pot or anothet low value pot like 100 ohms in series will give some fine adjustment but power regulation with a resistor is poor.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  6. #136
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    Jan 2010
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    Germany
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Forest View Post
    NO no I am not disappointed. He is doing just fine. Except he has his gas strut mounted upside down. What a dumb ass! Everybody knows the rod needs to point up. Really, no joke.
    Black Forest shut up! You don't know what your are talking about again. You must be related to JTiers.
    The rod end should be down in order to facilitate the seals get oiled adequately. And it should be mounted so whatever position the strut is at most of the time the rod is down. As in a trunk or hood for instance being closed most of the time.

    You should stick to sheep activities Black Forest.....
    How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

  7. #137
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    Dec 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Forest View Post
    Black Forest shut up! You don't know what your are talking about again. You must be related to JTiers.
    The rod end should be down in order to facilitate the seals get oiled adequately. And it should be mounted so whatever position the strut is at most of the time the rod is down. As in a trunk or hood for instance being closed most of the time.

    You should stick to sheep activities Black Forest.....


    Its ok, we all have those days, some more than others. Sometimes I can go months without doing anything right, wife always lets me know.
    Andy

  8. #138
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    Dec 2009
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    Flood won't stop me from working on this grinder!

    Started in on the solid bar that holds the "spider" looking thing with all the wheels on it. I hardly ever chamfer int he mill, I figured this would tool would be worthy.



    Drilled and bored a hole in the end of the bar.



    Clamped up to weld in the pin I turned up earlier. The "spider" will pivot on this pin.

    Andy

  9. #139
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    Dec 2009
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    Cut a slot for clamping the pin.



    Milled a flat in prep for drilling and tapping.



    After which I drilled and tapped the hole, but neglected to take pics as I had to run and pick up my son.

    This was just test fitting before slotting and drilling and whatnot. Everything looks nice and strait.

    Last edited by vpt; 03-15-2019 at 08:42 PM.
    Andy

  10. #140
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    Dec 2009
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    Ordered a drive wheel. It is from a different application but I'll make it work. Already has the right hole and keyway for the shaft and the right OD (6"). Just that it is 4" wide. I will elave it at first and see how things go, if I need/want to I can narrow it up later on (if it doesn't blow apart the first time I spin it). lol

    It was only $23 shipped to my door sooo.


    I wired up the motor and control box yesterday. Got the bar that holds the "spider" finished up. I started in on making clamp handles for everything. I was checking out 'adjustable clamp handles' on ebay and came to the conclusion they are essentially just sockets with handles welded to them. So I scrounged around and came up with 4 japan/chinese 3/4" sockets to sacrifice. I turned them down in the lathe to look better and get rid of the china marks, plus take the coating off for welding. Today i hope to pound those out. I will need to pick up some shorter bolts to be drilled and taped to work with the handles.

    Once that drive wheel comes in I can slap it on and run the grinder for the first time! Exciting times round here!
    Last edited by vpt; 03-17-2019 at 10:08 AM.
    Andy

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