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Thread: OT Somewhat- Mower Blades

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Default OT Somewhat- Mower Blades

    How hard are mower blades? I have a JD mower and the mower blades have a very high "set or pitch" to them, to raise the grass so it cuts evenly. But they also are messy when there is debris in the yard from leaves and the like. I was thinking about hammering out some of the pitch to the blades so they don't create such turbulence. My other mower has blades that have no where near the pitch to them, and it's much better cutting that way. They would still be in balance if I didn't get the pitch just the same, but I don't know if I could flatten them out.

  2. #2
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    Heat them up, straighten by clamping in a vise, try them out.
    Work hard play hard

  3. #3
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    They can be file sharpenned, and they have to tolerate hitting stones without shattering.

    Not that hard, possibly in the RC 30 to RC 40 area?
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  4. #4
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    I would just take an angle grinder and cut slots in the fins. That would reduce the turbulence and mulch better. You can buy blades this way. It would make me really nervous to try to flatten the blades. I have had a blade break at the bolt hole and it embedded itself in my barn wall. Mower blades are nothing to fool around with for safety's sake.
    How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

  5. #5
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    For the price of a set of blades I would just buy another set. Personally I like the high lift blades but if it's an issue in your case then yes get the blades you need.

    I would not heat them in order to bend them due to the probability of negatively affecting the blades heat treatment. Industry standard blade tip speed is about 19,000ft./min so you don't want end up sending steel projectiles out after a striking a rock or due to metal fatigue.

    From JD hisself:

    https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/d...wer_Blades.htm


    Made of high-carbon steel

    John Deere mower blades are made of abrasion-resistant, high-carbon, nickel-alloy steel. This steel (commonly used for automotive leaf springs) has the hardness to be extremely resistant to wear and breakage. Unlike the lower-carbon blades used by many manufacturers, John Deere blades will withstand sand, stones, or other hard objects with little cracking or chipping. The result is a better cutting job and longer blade life.
    Precision manufacturing process
    In providing a quality blade, the attention given to the manufacturing process is as important as using high-quality material. John Deere mower blades are precision manufactured. The process includes:
    · The blades are precision milled at each end for a smooth, sharp cutting surface.
    · They are then induction heated to 1600°F. This gives them a consistent hardness.
    · Next they are “plastic quenched.” This process of dipping and cooling the blade in a special solution ensures that the hardness attained during heat treating is not lost.
    · The next process is to draw and temper the blades in an oven to reduce brittleness and increase toughness. This further decreases the chance of the blade edges cracking or chipping.
    · All John Deere blades have a Rockwell Hardness of 40-C to 45-C. Hardness below 40-C results in a surface that is too soft. Hardness over 45-C makes the blade too brittle.
    · The blades are then flattened to ensure they are perfectly straight and balanced to permit a smoother cut.
    · Finally the blades are inspected to be sure they meet rigid quality control standards. This ensures that only the best mower blades are used.
    Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
    Bad Decisions Make Good Stories

  6. #6
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    British Columbia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Forest View Post
    I would just take an angle grinder and cut slots in the fins. That would reduce the turbulence and mulch better. You can buy blades this way. It would make me really nervous to try to flatten the blades. I have had a blade break at the bolt hole and it embedded itself in my barn wall. Mower blades are nothing to fool around with for safety's sake.
    Good advice!
    I've seen those blades with the slots, probably the safest way to modify the existing blades.
    Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
    Bad Decisions Make Good Stories

  7. #7
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    Most models of John Deere have a few types of blades avail. Get your model number and
    call a dealer....ask if they have a set of "low lift" blades avail.
    If it's a POS from a box store maybe not.
    Dave

  8. #8
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    I bought 2 "Gator" blades for mine & love 'em! 1 to use on the mower, 1 to sharpen at my leisure. So far I'm still on the 1st one after almost a full season. They're very durable & cut GREAT. Took a minute to get used to the slower pull on the rope due to the flywheel effect of the thicker/heavier blade though.

    http://en.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/oep/G6.htm
    Milton

    "Accuracy is the sum total of your compensating mistakes."

    "The thing I hate about an argument is that it always interrupts a discussion." G. K. Chesterton

  9. #9
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    Dec 2007
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    SW Kansas
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    I bought a 7’ landpride finish mower last year for my 34 hp Kubota. Mower worked good till you got in real tall grass, 7’ is on the edge for 34 HP.
    Orderd some new blades on amazon, they were nice looking well made. I noticed they had more lift than the old ones. Put them on tractor no power, at first I thought fuel filter, then I remembered the blades.
    I raised the deck with the blades on it sounded like a jet engine trying to take off.
    I tried flatting them out in the press, that didn’t work so I ended up cutting half fo the lift with the plasma torch. Worked great after that. I have heard it takes HP to run lifted blades but I had never experienced it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    SW Kansas
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    I found a deal on OEM mulching blades like Dickie posted. They were half price of the others. Bought 3 sets, hope I like them.

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