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Thread: making Er16 collet chuck

  1. #1

    Default making Er16 collet chuck

    i needed an er16 collet chuck for my stepper motor.

    purchased two from ebay: "er16 collet chuck motor extension"



    i've had much luck with chinese tools, but this time... it was a terrible experience.

    the specs said if i purchased 8mm ID for motor shaft, I would receive 7.98mm shaft so i could induction heat it, then put it on the shaft



    however, i recieved 8.1mm oversized hole, so i couldn't use it... too much runout.



    took over a month for it to arrive, wasn't going to wait again.



    based on google and forums er collet chucks have 8 degree internal taper angle



    my compound was not gonna have the accuracy required,

    so i used a bevel protractor to get the precision within 0.1 degrees, which for ER collets is enough



    even greater precision could be set, if i purchased electronic bevel protractor, but it would cost me over $600 for quality one.

    i just went with vernier one, which wasn't too bad.



    below is the link to the making vid of this collet holder



    feel free to comment

    https://youtu.be/bQxgMjGpD48

  2. #2

    Default

    I haven't watched the vid yet, but you can set the 8 degree to your level of measurement by using one of the collets themselves, assuming they're good ones. Anyway, if you chuck an appropriate piece of stock in the chuck to turn down to a snug fit on your chosen collet, you can then mount the collet on the stub arbor. With an indicator set on the compound, at lathe center height, adjust the compound so it track the collet without indicator movement. I make ER-32 collet chucks and use a sine bar to set the compound and consider it good enough when I get a tenth or less deviation moving the compound. Using the collet itself means you're depending on it to be correct and you've got much less travel to watch for variation but it should be good enough.
    .
    "People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time they will pick themselves up and carry on" : Winston Churchill

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Default

    Nice video. Why do you need an ER collet chuck on a stepper motor?
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob La Londe View Post
    Nice video. Why do you need an ER collet chuck on a stepper motor?
    just for a simple cnc machine

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TGTool View Post
    I haven't watched the vid yet, but you can set the 8 degree to your level of measurement by using one of the collets themselves, assuming they're good ones. Anyway, if you chuck an appropriate piece of stock in the chuck to turn down to a snug fit on your chosen collet, you can then mount the collet on the stub arbor. With an indicator set on the compound, at lathe center height, adjust the compound so it track the collet without indicator movement. I make ER-32 collet chucks and use a sine bar to set the compound and consider it good enough when I get a tenth or less deviation moving the compound. Using the collet itself means you're depending on it to be correct and you've got much less travel to watch for variation but it should be good enough.
    hm, i've heard you could set the agle correctly without the collet.
    you need to have DRO though.
    just indicate the inside taper of the er collet chuck, and use trig. to figure out the appropriate Z and X amount.
    very simple indeed. need calculator though

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dovidu View Post
    hm, i've heard you could set the agle correctly without the collet.
    you need to have DRO though.
    just indicate the inside taper of the er collet chuck, and use trig. to figure out the appropriate Z and X amount.
    very simple indeed. need calculator though
    Or use small sine bar to set the reference angle, check with test indicator. (edit: did I read anything what was already written?)
    Or two dial indicators mounted temporarily to lathe instead of DRO. Better if one of them is long stroke (1") version.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MattiJ View Post
    Or use small sine bar to set the reference angle, check with test indicator.
    Or two dial indicators mounted temporarily to lathe instead of DRO. Better if one of them is long stroke (1") version.
    oh sinebar, that should be more accurate. what i ve used is bevel protractor. i indicated the bevel protractor, which was quite easy.

    Sent from my LGM-K120L using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Central Virginia, USA
    Posts
    406

    Default

    you don't need a fancy protractor or DRO- just put some blue on the inside of the bore, insert the collet lightly with a piece of bar stock in it, and spin the collet. If the blue wipes evenly, your angle is good. If not, adjust compound and try again.

    allan

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Toronto
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    Default

    one way to get tapers dead on is turn a male part, set it up on sine bar, indicate it, semi loosen the compound, tap tap tap gently with a brass hammer and try again. It's easier than it sounds and the basic way to get perfect tapers with basic measuring equipment.
    .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Default

    Seems like far too much bother, why not just bore out the 8.1mm hole and press in a bush and finish bore to 7.98mm.

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