Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21

Thread: Slitting saw advice

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Salem, Oregon
    Posts
    471

    Default

    I have one of the 2nd ones you list, Projectnut, and find that it cuts fine if I am patient and get slow enough speeds and feeds for the material being cut.

    I've wondered how the keyed versions hold up, i.e., which gives 1st the cutter or the cuttee. Don't think I've ever slipped the wheel on my cutter. (yet)

    Dan L

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    148

    Default

    If I'm reading this right the groove is 1/4" wide and shallow, which I take to be less than 1/4" deep. I'd agree this isn't really a slitting operation and it sounds like a keyseat cutter will do the job no problem, as has been mentioned. Maritool has them for $20. Cheaper than an arbor and way cheaper than a 1/4" side milling cutter.

    As for arbors, both of the shars versions linked have their drawbacks, I built a DIY one (like many others) for a cheap carbide tipped trim saw blade I found on amazon. Home built arbor is a great lathe project and you can achieve better results than cheap imports.

    http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/thr...straight-shank

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Collierville, TN
    Posts
    3,498

    Default

    ...and don't forget to CLIMB cut with whatever cutter you end up using.
    Milton

    "Accuracy is the sum total of your compensating mistakes."

    "The thing I hate about an argument is that it always interrupts a discussion." G. K. Chesterton

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Ventura,CA.
    Posts
    146

    Default

    wdtom, not to hijack this thread but do you have a picture of the motor adapter that you made for your mill? (this is a model 21-100 correct?) Thanks, Jim

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Thanks all. Couple take aways.

    My mill is about 250 RPM slowest, like to slow it down but won’t be able to before this job. That means small diamater cutter and very slow feed rate. This cut should be about 1/4 wide bit over 1/4 deep. Slow feed ought to work.

    Think I will go several ways, primarily Woodruff key cutter run in a collet. Then a R8 Arbor with several slitting saws just to get the feel for how they work. No reason not to make up a Arbor for carbide small circular saws too. Not for this job but could be useful others. Aluminum for example.

    Am a bit confused confused on climb vs no climb. I would think climb milling should be avoided. Run the cutter so it cuts down into the work no different than a table saws blade bitting into a board. Is there a reason to run the tool climb ? Any event will make a Few Cut’s on a junk barrel to work things out.

    Would like to see a photo of the Rockwell slow arangement too.

    Boats
    Last edited by boats; 03-14-2019 at 05:37 PM.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    394

    Default

    jmm03, Sorry, I don't have a picture. I am not too good with computers and have never tried to figure out how to post a picture. I guess I should have a picture though as others over the years have asked too. Maybe I will work on it. Basically though you just fabricate a framework that moves the motor back and mounts the motor pulley where the motor was. The frame is the same height as the original aluminum one. I used 1 1/2" x 1/8" steel angle for the frame. Made a swing arm for the idler and the motor sits on the back of the frame and drives the idler. The swing arm pivots from the left side of the framework with a bearing on each end of the swingarm for the idler. The 1/2" thick steel plate, the base, bolts to the top of the head of the mill the way the original aluminum housing did. It is something like 8" sq. As big as my 10" Logan could swing when bolted to the face plate for boring the center hole to match the aluminum base. Hope this helps.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    394

    Default

    In my opinion climb cutting is trouble in anything with any backlash at all. Only good for removing a few thousands on the last cut to get a better finish. With any force the cutter, whatever it is, will suck the work in and at the least you will need a change of pants, worst, new something because you broke or bent the tooling.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    3,940

    Default

    Yeah, I don't get the climb milling recommendation either. My thoughts, as someone else mentioned, this is not a slitting operation being 1/4" wide. Use key seat cutter with its relatively small diameter compared to slitting saws to keep the cutting speed down.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Madison Wisconsin
    Posts
    432

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danl View Post
    I have one of the 2nd ones you list, Projectnut, and find that it cuts fine if I am patient and get slow enough speeds and feeds for the material being cut.

    I've wondered how the keyed versions hold up, i.e., which gives 1st the cutter or the cuttee. Don't think I've ever slipped the wheel on my cutter. (yet)

    Dan L
    I'm not sure the key is of any importance if you're actually using a slitting saw. Many of them don't even have a cutout for a ley. On the other hand I don't think something as large as a 1/4" milling cutter actually qualifies as a slitting saw. The widest are usually 3/32" or smaller. They are generally straight toothed and hollow ground for clearance. The teeth are not offset, and there is no provision for side cutting.

    I have cut slots as small as .016" with and 3/4" deep with a 3" diameter keyed slitting saw with a 1" ID. On one occasion I did hit a hard spot. The mill never flinched, but there's now one less tooth on the cutter.

    As for climb milling I wouldn't advise it unless you have an extremely rigid mill, and have the table locks partially engaged. Any play in the lead screw will allow table to move and the cutter to catch. You'll likely break either the cutter or ruin the part.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Appalachian Ohio
    Posts
    727

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky_NY View Post
    I built a couple gatling guns ...
    How about a nice build thread ???

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •