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Thread: O.T. old chainsaw restoration and a mystery problem

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    11

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    Where is Lakeside53 when you need him?

    I’ll guess a bad magnet on the flywheel..

    The guys on this forum will likely have the correct answer in short order:

    www.opeforum.com

  2. #22
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    Jan 2014
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    Long Island, N.Y.
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    2,609

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    Too much choke? Too little choke?

  3. #23
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    May 2006
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    14,537

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    Quote Originally Posted by Speaker77 View Post
    Where is Lakeside53 when you need him?

    Iíll guess a bad magnet on the flywheel..

    The guys on this forum will likely have the correct answer in short order:

    www.opeforum.com
    It ran good before he tore it down - it had a problem after the rebuild - I thought about the magnet theory and weak coil also but it does not fit... something changed in the rebuild. he modified the compression ratio, it might make the engine hotter and weaken the coil or magnet - but he said there's still spark... sooooooooooooooo back to square one.

    unless it's borderline spark that has a good show out of the chamber but not in, that's why I asked that question to him.

    we'll figure it out - iv gone up against thousands of them and not one has beaten me yet - same for Willy and Andy.

  4. #24
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    Jul 2012
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    11

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    Yes, I’m just guessing. The OP says that he has the answer, so we’ll see what he says.

  5. #25
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    May 2006
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    I hope he doesn't spill the beans just yet - this is my kinda fun - I do hope he answers the questions and also concludes that all the systems he talked about being operable were without a hitch.

    Like Willy said im perplexed if all systems were a go and the engine did not want to run, but there's "vague" area's like spark and fuel - so it's getting fuel but is the mixture correct or is it flooding out type stuff...

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    North Central Texas
    Posts
    2,496

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    Should probably change the crankcase oil and coolant.



    Yes, I am kidding. 99% of the people here know better, 99% of the general population wouldn't get it...



    First thought was a lack of fuel due to no tank venting or a crankcase leak, but both have been suggested.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    British Columbia
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    6,571

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    I wouldn't be overly concerned about lowering the cylinder in order to raise compression, within reason of course.
    A very popular mod with these saws is to use a thin layer of sealant like Yamabond 4, Hylomar, Motoseal 1, etc. in lieu of the cylinder base gasket in order to increase performance, and it does indeed wake them up. The OP has claimed it's running stronger than ever so I doubt he's done any damage and only improved the performance at this point.

    Like I mentioned earlier I'm rebuilding a Husqvarna 372xp at the moment, probably number 12 of 365 Specials and 372 XPs in as many months. I've been tempted to do the same but these are not my saws and the guys I have done them for have all said they don't want to take the chance with a saw they need for work. I'd like to try it on my Jonsered but I hate fixing something that isn't broke. I never used to think that way when I was younger. LOL
    Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
    Bad Decisions Make Good Stories

  8. #28
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    May 2006
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    I mention the raised ratio due to it being the only "wild card" we have since the rebuild - if I been reading the OP correctly the problemo was non-existent before the tear down, re-ringing and a hone sure does not change what were talking about and if he got end gap too tight we would not even be having a conversation as it makes piston seizure look like kidstuff,,,

    the engine runs too good for that - but if its running that much stronger that would most likely mean it's producing more heat,,, so within just that could lie a secret were missing...

    it could be a type of vapor lock but I think i already asked questions close to that with the carb overheating...

  9. #29
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    Oct 2005
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    British Columbia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joel View Post
    Should probably change the crankcase oil and coolant.



    Yes, I am kidding. 99% of the people here know better, 99% of the general population wouldn't get it...



    First thought was a lack of fuel due to no tank venting or a crankcase leak, but both have been suggested.
    Don't be silly, it's probably the wrong two cycle oil for his high compression muffler bearings. Sheesh!
    Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
    Bad Decisions Make Good Stories

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Huntsville Ala
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    When it refuses to start, does it go 'putt-putt.." at all when the cord is pulled?

    It sounds like something is continuing to build up heat and expand out of acceptable tolerance soon after shutdown. ...maybe the ports are now mis-positioned just enough to offset or change the stoichiometric mixture until it cools and contracts back.

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