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Thread: Sideshaft i.c. Horizontal Engine

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Niagara-on-the-lake Ontario Canada
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    83

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    Well so much for the quote " I might never build it, but it is interesting. "
    I look forward to the build process and the eventual success of this endeavor
    Harold

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
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    Here is a link to the gears on Ebay. They are brand new.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1M-30T-15T-...GNo7RpCbMsH8Dg
    Brian Rupnow

  3. #13
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    Mar 2008
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    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
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    I've just done one of those things that drive machinists crazy. This main chassis for the engine is up on my mill right now, and I've just realized something about the counterbores for the ball bearings. The counterbores won't be put in until the bearing caps are made up and bolted into place. I don't see any way to machine it like this. I can open the hole to full size on one side and then fit the boring bar down thru it to counterbore the other side, but unless I'm missing something I can't put a counterbore in both sides. Its not critical that it have the web left in the side of the hole to back up the ball bearing, but it would have been nice. I know I could resort to some old time voodoo and mount it to the lathe saddle and make up a boring bar that gets assembled in place to do the counterbores, but I prefer not to do that.
    Brian Rupnow

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    San Antonio TX, USA
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    2,527

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    Make your own boring bar from a piece of rod just smaller than the shaft hole with a square cross hole. Drill and tap the end for a set screw to hold a piece of hss in place. Grind it with relief on both sides and end. Rough out most of the bearing seats by moving the piece of hss outwards, then do a finish cut to full width and depth on both seats without adjusting the cutter. It'll be fiddly as anything and hitting size will be a challenge, but doable nonetheless.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Missouri
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    30,954

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    All you really need is a ring to hold the bearing, not that full web, unless that is part of a seal or shield. The web might rub on the inner race.

    So open it up, set up a boring bar that fits in bushings that index on the ring that you want, with the cutter in the middle, Drill or bore to the ring ID and then put in the bushings and the bar, proceeding to bore it as you would if you had a mini Storm boring bar. Cutter goes in a hole toward the middle of the bar, so it is guided by both bushings.
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    173

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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    Make your own boring bar from a piece of rod just smaller than the shaft hole with a square cross hole. Drill and tap the end for a set screw to hold a piece of hss in place. Grind it with relief on both sides and end. Rough out most of the bearing seats by moving the piece of hss outwards, then do a finish cut to full width and depth on both seats without adjusting the cutter. It'll be fiddly as anything and hitting size will be a challenge, but doable nonetheless.
    yeah, maybe you could make a boring bar with this little tool bit holder.
    http://www.essentracomponents.com/en...2187-in-5.6-mm

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Toronto
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    769

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    A few years ago I built the Nanzy 1/2 scale engine . The timing gear bushing had to have a face on the inside of the main body and was not accessible from the other side.

    So I made a facing cutter by silver soldering a piece of carbide to a notched rod as shown:



    The back faces were ground as a facing cutter and the one boo-boo I made was not having a long enough rod. So a 3/8" drill chuck was used to hold the cutter.



    I think a cutter like this (which can be purchased from KBC) will work.

    Geoff
    Last edited by ammcoman2; 03-21-2019 at 09:51 AM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
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    173

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    in aviation structure sheet metal, we had reverse spotfacer (counterbore).
    they look like this:
    https://www.yardstore.com/nsearch/?q=reverse+spotfacer

    and you need a pilot for that

    https://www.yardstore.com/nsearch/?q...potfacer+pilot

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
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    That didn't go too badly at all. I have a multitude of holes to tap, and I'm still thinking about the counterbore issue, but I like the way the piece turned out. About 90% of it was "Lay out the shape on a piece of 2" material, bandsaw close to the line, then mill to the line". Tomorrow I will think some more about the counterbores and tap all the holes.


    Brian Rupnow

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
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    I've figured out the counterbore. I can do both sides with a brazed carbide boring tool in my boring head. The crankshaft is 3/8" diameter. The clearance hole around the shaft is going to get opened out to 5/8" diameter. The counterbore for the bearing is 0.906" diameter. The shank on the brazed carbide boring tool is .425" diameter. The only part that of this that sucks a bit is that I can't do both sides in one set-up. I have a 5/8" reamer which will be used to put the clearance hole thru all. That way I can "pick up" on the reamed hole when I flip the part over to do the other side.
    Brian Rupnow

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