Page 3 of 13 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 128

Thread: Sideshaft i.c. Horizontal Engine

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    9,305

    Default

    Todays work involved tapping all the holes I had drilled yesterday in the main chassis and fabricating a pair of bearing caps. Those bearing caps have a lot more work in them than you would think at a casual glance. Why is the half hole in the bearing caps a different size than the half hole in the main frame?--That comes from making changes on the fly and not writing them down on the drawing as I do them. It doesn't really matter. They are clearance holes around the crankshaft and still have to be drilled out to a larger size before things are finished. Tomorrow I will tackle the bores and counterbores. Every fifteen minutes I have a different plan on how I'm going to do it--Probably won't know myself until I'm actually doing it.
    Brian Rupnow

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Kansas City area
    Posts
    5,628

    Default

    You could make your own version of this...

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/APT-MULTI-T...ty!66227!US!-1

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    9,305

    Default

    So--Here we have the main chassis and baseplate set up in the milling vice. The top hole has been drilled thru and reamed to 0.750". The bottom hole (which will be on the sideshaft side of the engine) has been drilled and reamed to 0.4375" diameter. The boring tool fits down thru the .750" clearance hole and has counterbored a 0.906" diameter hole x 0.312" deep into the inside face, to hold the ball bearing.

    Brian Rupnow

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    9,305

    Default

    I'm not really sure of what it is I'm doing, but that has never stopped me before. To put the counterbore in the other side of the engine chassis, I need some kind of "setting master" to set the boring tool to the diameter I require. I don't have any practical way to do that when the boring tool is in the part, so I will do it in the lathe. I have just turned a "setting master" from mild steel, one end of which is bored to the size required for the bearing and the other end turned to be about 0.010" smaller than the 7/16" hole which the boring tool must pass thru. It will become clearer as I post more pictures.---I hope!!
    Brian Rupnow

  5. #25
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    14,651

    Default

    Bri you sure get stuff done that's for sure... there's plenty of bells and whistles on this one and it will be fun to watch run,

    any special lube/grease recommended for those type gears? lots of scuffing action going on there that's for sure...

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    9,305

    Default

    So--Here we have me setting the boring bar (held in the headstock chuck) to the inside diameter of the "setting master" which is held in the tailstock chuck. Also a picture of the counterbore cut into the second side of the engine chassis. It worked out perfectly.

    Brian Rupnow

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    9,305

    Default

    And last but not least, the two sealed ball bearings at home in their counterbores. You will note that the non sideshaft side has a much larger clearance hole than the sideshaft side. That is because with the large clearance hole cut into the side of the chassis for one of the helical gears, I didn't want to take any more material away than I absolutely had to.

    Brian Rupnow

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    9,305

    Default

    A.K.Boomer--I have a tube of Lucas Extra Heavy Duty bearing grease. --Which looks and feels just like plain old axle grease. It seems to get the job done okay.
    Brian Rupnow

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    9,305

    Default

    I found a piece of 1144 stress-proof steel big enough to turn a one piece crankshaft from. I'm thinking about bolt on counterweights. The model I show here is doable, but I'm not terribly impressed by the look of it. Has anyone seen bolt on counterweights on another model? If so a picture would be appreciated.
    Brian Rupnow

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    769

    Default

    Hi Brian.

    I am building a Kiwi engine that has a built up crankshaft:





    The photos are upside down but seem to work for viewing

    The bronze counterweights are fixed with locktite 638 and screwed to the crank. Then final cleanup done.

    Geoff
    Last edited by ammcoman2; 03-24-2019 at 07:05 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •