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Thread: How can I machine toilet leveling wedges?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Default How can I machine toilet leveling wedges?

    About an inch long 1/2" wide and about 1/8" on the thickest end. Material could be AL or PVC. I have a mill w/o tilting head but not sure how to hold such a small piece or how to control the flexing.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Woodinville, WA
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    Glue the pvc down. Mill it as a series of straight lines across descending every 1/16 or whatever. Doesn't have to be a smooth ramp.
    Last edited by lakeside53; 04-14-2019 at 01:01 AM.

  3. #3
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    Feb 2005
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    Ohio
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    How about using the plastic construction shims from Home Depot? Very easy to trim to the right size. Dennis

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    175

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    belt sander?

    heat gun and something else to squish the plastic into a taper?

    bandsaw to cut 3/8" stock into a taper?

    hammer and anvil to smash the aluminum into a taper?
    sorry for trolling but i don't even..

  5. #5
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    May 2002
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    SE Texas
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    Why would you even want to machine them? They are dead cheap at any hardware or plumbing supply store.
    Paul A.

    Make it fit.
    You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

  6. #6
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    Feb 2016
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    clamp it in a vise and hit it with an angle grinder.

  7. #7
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    Oct 2006
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    Victoria BC, Canada
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    Well... this is going to be one of those projects, so best gear up for it right.

    Start with a new mill. Not a cheap one either, and get a nice new stainless workbench to put next to it. Then, you're going to need a jig, and that will take a new high-precision vice... and probably a new rotary table too. That jig should take a week or so to machine up, unless you have to stop and machine up some tooling instead of buying new. Making could take years... decades even. After you get that jig, well, probably you'll need a DRO. And if you're going to get a DRO, you might as well go all the way and get a new CNC work-center. That could make one of those shims in a jiffy, if you've got the model for it. For that, you'll need a Solidworks license and a decent machine to run it on... video card for it should probably set you back what you paid for that mill. So, no problem. You can give your wife this list every time she uses the toilet and it rocks. Enjoy the new shop.

    edit: and if you already have all the above tooling from the last project, but don't want to bother with CNC, you just need to carve the steps in a metric-pound of whatever and then cut off the good bit to whatever teeny size you want.

    edit: or, you could get yourself a big chunk of aircraft grade billet aluminium, military aircraft grade preferably, and mill an appropriately-sized slot down the side of it. Then, turn it between centers on your lathe, cutting in steps to match your desired profile. Put your material in the slot and cut the same profile. The top would have a bit of curve to it, but that would be more a feature than a problem in use. Seeing as how all the cutting forces are going to be against the jig, it shouldn't take much to clamp your material... You could perhaps go to a hardware store and buy a little wedge for that... Paul says they're cheap.

    Sorry, it's getting late and I'm still waiting for Colmap (some image to mesh thingy) I'm trying out to finish it's job. I'll probably give up soon as it appears I'm getting rather silly.

    David...
    Last edited by fixerdave; 04-14-2019 at 05:17 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Somerset UK
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    2,156

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    As already mentioned, overlapping thin plastic sheets to build up a wedge profile, or this type: https://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-...-pcs/80408#_=p

  9. #9
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    :-) If you have to ask that, you shouldn't be trying to do it.
    ...lew...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    SE Texas
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    If you are really going to make them, the easy way would be to use bar stock, 1/8" x 1".

    In the mill, use a tilting vise set at the appropriate angle. Hold your stock with the 1/8" edge up and with about 1"+ hanging past the end of the jaws. Back it up with a heavier (1/2" x 1") piece of bar stock to brace it. Mill about 3/4" long wedge with a long cutter (1"+) and perhaps 3/8" or 1/2" diameter. Remove from mill and cut off at your 1/2" width. Repeat. Deburr all.

    Do this on the right side of the vise jaws and the milling cutter will press your stock against the back-up piece.
    Paul A.

    Make it fit.
    You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

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