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Thread: BP Table Power Feed Lever

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    6,136

    Default BP Table Power Feed Lever

    I was going to get a new one or at the least an aftermarket one, until I saw the prices on these. So I decided to repair it again.
    I welded it up and re-tapped the hole probably about 15 years ago or so. I think that the prior owner did the same at one time.
    I never could keep it tight. It always seemed to loosen up and I was constantly tightening the 10-24 set screw until the other day when it broke looses around the screw.



    This time I ground it all out around around the screw hole until I was into clean metal. I turned a copper plug to insert into the hole so it would retain it's shape.
    I welded it up and filed it down into shape.



    I need to file out the key slot a little so it will seat a litter lower on the shaft.

    While I was at it I hand filed a new key that fits much tighter in the oval slot. Hopefully that will reduce any play.
    If this fails then I'll cut the end off the lever and make one out of 6061 and weld it to the handle.



    JL................

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Salem, Oregon
    Posts
    483

    Default

    My old 6F did the same thing. I finally drilled, reamed and pounded in a small taper pin and the problem went away.

    Dan
    There was a blind carpenter who picked up his hammer and saw.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    6,136

    Default

    OK, so you had to take the selector shaft out of the unit and drill through it along with he head of the handle, correct??

    I've seen other variations where the handle is split and there is a bolt that goes through it pinching it to the shaft.
    It may be a different model drive and the shaft may be splined.

    JL...............

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Salem, Oregon
    Posts
    483

    Default

    No, too much hassle. I was able to get a long shank drill bit completely through the round section of the handle, and then using a taper reamer with an extension, ream out to a proper depth, then hammer in the taper pin after test fitting and cutting it to the correct length. (When I say the round section, I mean the portion that fits over the shaft.)

    Earlier I had put an additional set screw in, coming in from the side, but that was only a temporary fix, and kept vibrating or wiggling loose. The taper pin took care of it.

    Dan
    Last edited by Danl; 05-15-2019 at 10:23 PM. Reason: (description of round section)
    There was a blind carpenter who picked up his hammer and saw.

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