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Thread: Newbie looking for knurling info

  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default Success!!!

    So, I was finally able to try out my new knurling tool and I'm very pleased with the results. This was my first real project and it turned out better than expected. The head is 3/4" brass and the handle is 1/2" Aluminum. I tried manual feed first, but wasn't happy with the results. So, I changed the lathe gearing to 12 TPI (fastest I could do) to get this result.

    I'm sure you'll find flaws with it, but I'm very happy. I plan on doing another handle with 12L14 steel since I haven't tried steel yet on the lathe.


    Last edited by devils4ever; 06-05-2019 at 07:22 AM.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Newbie here too! nice to meet everyone!

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    10,924

    Default

    This was my first real project and it turned out better than expected.
    Good for you, the knurl looks good from here, can's see any tracking issues. (Even if there was, its still going perform its intended function: grip. )

    Its a lot of fun having a project come together and a thrill when its all new.
    .

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Chilliwack, BC, Canada
    Posts
    5,392

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LuckyWY View Post
    Newbie here too! nice to meet everyone!
    Lucky, first post I see. Welcome Aboard!

    Put up your own "Post New Thread" and tell us a bit about yourself, your shop, tools, what you make or want to make and so on. That way you don't get lost in the shuffle of a current running thread.

    Devils4', that came out nice from the look of it. And on a long piece like that it's often tougher to do well.

    I think I mentioned earlier that I found aluminium is a nasty material because if I over pressed it that it would dull the finish badly from the swarf being pressed into the teeth. So I tend to go a bit light and make a second "peaking" pass so I can get the pressure from the knurls just right for a clean forming but not over compressed pass. And that's not easy on a long slender piece like this.
    Last edited by BCRider; 06-05-2019 at 11:31 AM.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    Devils4', that came out nice from the look of it. And on a long piece like that it's often tougher to do well.

    I think I mentioned earlier that I found aluminium is a nasty material because if I over pressed it that it would dull the finish badly from the swarf being pressed into the teeth. So I tend to go a bit light and make a second "peaking" pass so I can get the pressure from the knurls just right for a clean forming but not over compressed pass. And that's not easy on a long slender piece like this.
    Yeah, I was afraid on it not aligning on a second pass, so I did it in one. The motor was groaning a bit because I had it set to a very, very low speed and the gears were set to 12 TPI on autofeed. I did a small section manually, but it didn't look good. I'm very pleased with it.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    963

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by devils4ever View Post
    Yeah, I was afraid on it not aligning on a second pass, so I did it in one. The motor was groaning a bit because I had it set to a very, very low speed and the gears were set to 12 TPI on autofeed. I did a small section manually, but it didn't look good. I'm very pleased with it.
    To do a second pass, don't pull the knurl off the part and try to engage it again. Just stop the lathe, reverse feed direction or spindle direction, and let it feed back the other way; leave the knurl tool engaged the whole time.

    low spindle speed is good, but I don't like to use a high feed rate like you did. A moderate to slow feed rate seems to work better and is easier on the machine.

    Also, if you're using a scissors or clamp style tool, rigidity of the part doesn't matter much, as long as it's not thin wall tube that would be crushed by clamping forces. If you're using a bump knurl tool rigidity matters a lot, but bump knurlers pretty much suck for jobs where you want a nice knurl.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    NW Illinois
    Posts
    744

    Default

    Oil. Always use plenty of oil to flush away all the little particles of metal generated during knurling. It is necessary to get a clean looking knurl.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    963

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Illinoyance View Post
    Oil. Always use plenty of oil to flush away all the little particles of metal generated during knurling. It is necessary to get a clean looking knurl.
    Yes +1 to that, gotta have oil.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    3,115

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Illinoyance View Post
    Oil. Always use plenty of oil to flush away all the little particles of metal generated during knurling. It is necessary to get a clean looking knurl.
    Yes on the oil but NOT to "flush away particles" . There should be NO particles if you are not over squeezing the work. You are only forming the material NOT cutting it .
    ...lew...

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    16

    Default

    I have never found the starting diameter to be a factor when knurling unless the finish knurled diameter is the critical dimension.
    If producing knurled surfaces for hand gripping the finished diameter is unimportant, if it is a drive roller for example the knurled diameter may be important.

    This is a 2 1/2" diameter X 3/8" wall steel tube that will be a drive roller for a conveyor belt, the knurled portion is 22" long, I use an Eagle Rock scissor tool for these parts, I do nor turn them first and just knurl the tube mill surface, works a charm.

    90 Rpm spindle speed and .008-.010" feed rate and use lots of coolant, I use one nozzle for each wheel.

    [

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