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Thread: Turning B&S 9 to R8 question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
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    Default Turning B&S 9 to R8 question

    I have a Sheldon horiz mill coming, it is B&S 9 spindle.
    I have found several options for getting tooled up.
    One option is to turn/grind B&S 9 spindle up to R8.
    I been looking at the taper shank dimensions on this site:
    http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Tapers.html

    I cannot wrap my mind around the dims to bore up to R8, because guys on the other internet groups claim that after the R8 conversion you can go back an forth between either BS9/R8.
    If anyone is good with a CAD drawing, can you overlay the dims that I can see, an post that? or pm me?
    Personaly, when I look at the comparable dims on the listing I posted, I must question this:
    why not bore it up to NMTB30????

  2. #2
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    I don't know if it is dimensionally possible but there are a couple of questions that need to be asked because you didn't say.

    1. Are you going to do this yourself or farm it out.

    2. If you plan on doing it yourself do you have the skill and equipment.

    If you make a mess of this you don't have a mill at all just a boat anchor. If you do have the equipment and skills then what the hell why not, B&S collets are not common and expensive.
    Last edited by loose nut; 05-28-2019 at 10:08 AM.
    The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

    Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

  3. #3
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    You need to grind your spindle on an ID grinder
    like a Heald or a Bryant.
    Can also be done on a cylindrical grinder with a
    swing down ID attachment.
    Likely use a CBN mounted wheel.
    Set the angle with a standard or sine bar attachment.

    -Doozer

    -Doozer
    DZER

  4. #4
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    Dec 2018
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    loose nut,
    I plan to do this myself
    I think I got the skill and equipment
    I think I'm going to do one of 2 things:
    make my own B&S adapters to MT2, or just plain B&S9
    or,
    make a entirely new spindle of a common taper.
    saving the original BS9 spindle as a screw-up backup.
    Thats why I'm asking lots of questions before I dive in and screw up.

    The drive belts must be replaced, therefore the spindle is coming out regardless.
    Since the spindle will already be out, maybe I can duplicate it in R8, or MT3, MT2, or NMTB30, or.............?

  5. #5
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    Doing the drawing sounded like a fun thing to do over morning coffee. The dimensions shown are what I'd use for making the sockets in the arbor and not the actual tapers. So the purple overlay of the B&S is a bit longer in the tail to allow for some positional variation and the open end is a touch smaller so the nose of the taper will stick out about 1/8 to 1/4". Same with the R8 done in black with green dimensions. It's longer at the parallel end and the middle is relieved out to 1" to allow easy inserting and the nose taper is shorter at both ends to reflect the wider midsection and so the tapered end will stick out about .05 to .06.

    I also see now that the B&S should likely switch to parallel about a 1/2" to 3/4" before the small end.

    Either way though this looks like it could be done if you choose to hog into the existing arbor. But I would say that your idea of keeping the original and making a new R8 would be the more prudent choice.



    But once again we get back to the idea that if your lathe has a compound that can travel for about 4" then you could pretty easily set up for making and fine tuning the fit for B&S tapers. The trick would be to find a B&S #9 socket to use for a "master" for rubbing the markings off the taper being made to see where a touch of metal removal is needed to get a good fit. Something like THIS ONE

  6. #6
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    Milwaukee
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    Wells-Index will regrind their spindles from B&S 9 to R8. They do it with the spindle mounted in the bearings. So, it is dimensionally possible. You might try giving them a call.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gzig5 View Post
    Wells-Index will regrind their spindles from B&S 9 to R8. They do it with the spindle mounted in the bearings. So, it is dimensionally possible. You might try giving them a call.
    yeah, for 690$$

  8. #8
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    Dec 2018
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    BCRider,
    thanks, that is what I was looking for, just to wrap my mind around it.
    BTW, the R8 is undercut in the midsection is it not?
    Some drawings I saw were .949, some were undercut in midsection.
    Never saw any at 1".

  9. #9

    Default

    The R8 spindle hole is straight. The collet.is.undercut for most of the length, with a full diameter section at the drawback 3d nd.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post

    But once again we get back to the idea that if your lathe has a compound that can travel for about 4" then you could pretty easily set up for making and fine tuning the fit for B&S tapers. The trick would be to find a B&S #9 socket to use for a "master" for rubbing the markings off the taper being made to see where a touch of metal removal is needed to get a good fit. Something like THIS ONE
    I would think that the spindle on the machine would be the best B&S #9 socket to use for a "master" for making collets and toolholders to match.

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