Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 23 of 23

Thread: The second best way to fasten handwheels to the leadscrew

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Buffalo NY
    Posts
    4,379

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by A.K. Boomer View Post

    Now that is just plain cool.
    I need to remember this one.

    -Doozer
    DZER

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    15,012

    Default

    Dooz it's stronger than most people think - just because their round and not square does not mean there's not a ton of shear strength there, your trying to shear the hardened dowels right at their maximum circumference so if everything is good materials it's incredibly strong, even allot of modern bicycle cranksets now have round interface engagement,,,

    one important factor, you have to figure out the radius of the shaft and the radius of the dowel and intersect right at the maximum diameter of the dowel for best shear factor, this requires "hugging" the shaft side more when making your cuts...

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Edmonton AB. Canada
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Sorry guys, I had to help my wife with the garden so I haven’t had much time to answer.

    You know the saying “Happy wife, happy wife” no, my life doesn’t improve whether she is happy of not....

    Quote Originally Posted by J Tiers View Post
    So you set up the shaft in the mill (good) ordrillpress (not as good), clamping it in position so that a drill or a pin the right size goes cleanly through the shaft hole when in the chuck or collet. Now put the handwheel on, without moving anything. Clamp the handwheel enough that it will not spin or slide off, and drill through with the right size drill. The hole should be right where it is needed.

    You need to spit drill first, and baby the drill through so it does not wander, but it works, I've done it a time or two. Someone wrote it up in more detail recently, can't recall where, maybe here, maybe in one of the magazines.
    Great idea!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by vpt View Post
    I haven't but sounds like something to give a try!

    I cut this slot with the sawzall. I think I cleaned it up with a file.

    Looks great!

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Carlstedt View Post
    I use my shaper for most shaping/broaching work, or the Bridgeport Quill
    For lathe work..... if necessary.... I use a tool that fits my Aloris Tool Post.
    A friend gave me plans a few years ago and this is the result.
    Prior to the tool, I used the Lathe Carriage Handwheel which I think would be faster than a leadscrew wheel, even though
    I like leadscrew handwheels ( don't have one)
    Anyway a tool like this prevents further wear to the lathe and is very fast to use.
    Rich
    That would be handy... I went back and looked where you live... but you are too far away to borrow it.

    Quote Originally Posted by darryl View Post
    I'm going to go back to your statement of using a sealed bearing for the lead screw. Sealed bearings are cheap- but they don't have any way of taking out axial play unless you use two of them and some method of pre-loading. Better might be to use needle thrust bearings. Cheap enough also, and still two required, and pre-load also- but will take up less space and would be the preferred method.

    If the handle is in any way required to be part of the pre-load adjustment, which is not uncommon, you may have to re-think how it can be mounted. If the handle needs to carry the division wheel, you'll want it to be able to slide on the lead screw shaft, but have virtually no rotational play relative to the shaft. I like the three pin method for this- better than a single key.
    I am too far into it to change the bearings now.

    Maybe time for some background...

    The gentleman that I bought chain link fencing from had it sitting in his yard wrapped in plastic (probably used at the chain link shop to fishtail cross pieces for gates) decent shape, all the small factory handwheels were broken, few holes in the table and a dented belt guard.... but generally okay.

    I asked him what he wanted to sell it for, and he said $2000. Every time I went back I would ask him how much he wanted and the price kept dropping... and after 2 years I bought it for $200. The plastic wrap was weathered and there was rust on the table. But generally it was oily and greasy and the dovetails looked pretty good.

    I only want it for a drill press but I can see than a second mill could be handy at times. (my second late is very handy) and you can leave something set up in one lathe while you work on a pertaining piece in the other one.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •