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Thread: I broke these off. Sad face.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Default I broke these off. Sad face.

    I broke something, well two things, that I need now.

    I broke the nipple off of two of these fittings/valves. They are a one way valve or 'check valve' I guess. They are threaded into a 2 cycle engine for recirculation of air, gas, and stuff. They are quite tiny, I don't have any numbers but I would guess the hex is under 1/4", the nipple is maybe 1/16".

    Whats the course of action to get these fixed fast?

    My thought is drill them about 3/32" deep (try to stay out of the spring inside if there is one) at the nipples OD, then turn up and press in a solid round, then drill out the solid to whatever the ID was before. Tedious work.

    Glad I just noticed them tonight, I'm sure I'll sleep well tonight.

    Andy

  2. #2
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    Nov 2008
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    Default

    Rather than drilling it out, it might be easier to turn a shoulder on the hex portion and make a fitting with the hose barb to press fit to the shoulder.

    Dan
    At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by danlb View Post
    Rather than drilling it out, it might be easier to turn a shoulder on the hex portion and make a fitting with the hose barb to press fit to the shoulder.

    Dan
    That is a good idea! I could even turn down the whole hex and just turn them in with pliers. They don't take much to screw in. I really like that idea!
    Andy

  4. #4
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    May 2006
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    I would be really careful with trying to do that - what if it's just a big void inside for a spring and ball?


    take the broken barb, im sure it most likely broke at the base, drill the center of the hex out to re-accept the barb with a slight press fit with some loc-tite, trim the connection hose to get on new area and you may even have to adapt a small clamp of some kind because the barb will be shorter...

  5. #5
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    Kent, U.K.
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    I'd do the same except ream the hole and turn a new barb. Those barb fittings often have a kinda rough finish that might not take well to a press fit or loctite.
    Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.

    Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
    Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
    Monarch 10EE 1942

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by A.K. Boomer View Post
    I would be really careful with trying to do that - what if it's just a big void inside for a spring and ball?


    take the broken barb, im sure it most likely broke at the base, drill the center of the hex out to re-accept the barb with a slight press fit with some loc-tite, trim the connection hose to get on new area and you may even have to adapt a small clamp of some kind because the barb will be shorter...
    I'd have to search, but I don't have the broken off parts in hand. They are on the floor I am sure, most likely by my drill press as that is where I was pissing around with the block the most. It helps that my shop is a huge mess right now too.

    Last night I was giving a bit of thought and remembered I have some very small copper tubing in the shop somewhere. Might be close to the right size. No flare/barb on the end but I don't think there is mush pressure on these tiny hoses. I might be able to drill and press some tube in.

    I will have to take a look down the fittings hole and see if I can see how deep the spring is inside.

    I still like Dan's idea of turning the OD and pressing a chunk over the fitting then turning that down to a barb end.
    Andy

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Buffalo NY
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    Make new hose nipples with a flat flange for surface area
    and then soft solder these on to the hex fittings.

    -D
    DZER

  8. #8
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    Aug 2009
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    I would drill the top of the fitting, set the nipple in there and solder it. I've done it before on similar things. Easy fix. If you need the length make a new nipple and solder it in.

    JL............

  9. #9
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    May 2006
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    soldering not a bad way to go IF he can verify that it's not a nylon check ball, still have to be careful even if steel as you don't want to change the value's of the spring inside too much so would recommend getting it done quick and dunking it...

  10. #10
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    Chilliwack, BC, Canada
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    Default

    A bit of probing with a small wire with a "L" bend to find out how deep the hole is before you hit the ball or spring. If it's a one way I guess the question is which is the part you're staring at down the hole? The ball or the ID of the spring. I'd want to find that out before I drilled any sort of hole.

    If it is the back of the spring you're looking at through the hole then you could drill it out to 3/32 and then go get some 3/32 brass tubing from a hobby shop. Places that cater to RC models and those that cater to model railroaders handle the K&S line of drawn brass tubing. Cut off a short length and solder it into place. Or since you only need one(?) just make it since it would be faster than driving out to buy the tubing.

    If you are looking at the end of the ball in its seat when looking down the hole then drilling it isn't an option. In that case I'd make up your own steel or brass barbs but leave a bit of a flange that is the same diameter as the small dimension across the flats and again solder the new part face against face after you clean off the face that had the barb on the valve. Again a bit of fussy work but certainly doable.

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