Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: swaging wire rope

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Chilliwack, B.C.
    Posts
    11,749

    Default swaging wire rope

    Looking at the various ways of crimping onto wire rope, and the materials used. There are hand powered tools, mostly using aluminum crimps, there are hydraulic tools- wondering what other metals are used to make the crimps. I've seen copper used in aircraft applications. Are there other materials in common use? I've made my own in steel, but I would imagine you'd use a stainless steel if it was going to be in outdoor use.

    This then raises the question of how much force is required. I would expect aluminum to be about the easiest to deform, next would probably be copper- more for steel. and there's going to be a limit with those hand powered crimpers. Just looking for a bit of enlightenment on this aspect of 'metalworking'.
    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    9,504

    Default

    I swage wire 1/8 and 3/16 wire rope with a 16 ton hand held hydraulic unit. Uses hex dies. I also have a 10 ton unit for big electrical terminals that I've used for rope now and then. My swage sleeves are thin wall stainless.

    This one : https://stainlesscablerailing.com/ca...g-systems.html
    Last edited by lakeside53; 06-11-2019 at 01:18 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    6,760

    Default

    What thickness and material of cable are you needing to swag? What is the use of the finished cable?
    How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    31,487

    Default

    A popular and effective system is Nicopress with copper sleeves. As you noted, folks who make control and bracing cables for aircraft seem to use copper, so it is obviously possible to do reliable structural connections.

    The crimp sleeve itself has to satisfy some basic requirements.

    The sleeve is deformed when it is squeezed into place, the deformation causes it to flow around the wires in the wire cable, and that "interference fit" is what gives the strength. So one requirement on it is that it must be ductile.

    The material must not cut the cable, it has to flow into it. So beyond just being ductile, the material must be relatively softer than the wire cable, so that the sleeve is what deforms. That lets out most steel or iron, and anything harder.

    The sleeve has to have strength enough to withstand a pull, so really soft materials like lead are not very suitable, although zinc is used in hot poured connections, when the fanned-out cable end is secured in a cone shaped socket by filling molten zinc around it.

    The sleeve should not corrode before the cable, because the corrosion might not be seen inside the sleeve. So aluminum is not as good as copper, which will corrode slower than the steel in most environments.

    Bottom line is that copper sleeves are very good on all points, and tend to be used in high reliability crimped connections. They are not the only type possible, just very good.
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    SE Texas
    Posts
    12,315

    Default

    Why reinvent the wheel?

    https://www.mcmaster.com/wire-rope-sleeve-crimpers

    If it is for a critical or safety involved application I would check with the manufacturers of the tools and crimps. I know from doing a lot of electronic crimps that it is easy to use too much or too little force. Many tools have the limits built into them so, when they are fully closed on the proper crimp for the wire size in use, the crimp IS good. This assurance is hard to duplicate in a local shop without a lot of destructive testing.

    If your application is not in that league, then buying the ready made crimps and a simple tool is probably the easiest and least expensive way to go. They also make dies that can be used in a shop press or perhaps even in a bench vise.
    Paul A.

    Make it fit.
    You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Chilliwack, B.C.
    Posts
    11,749

    Default

    I have a couple applications coming up, which is what has renewed my interest in this. One is an indoor application, and will be a net of sorts- two parallel wires about 10 ft apart, with probably 5 or 7 wires between them with the shortest wire at the center. Once done the main wires are not parallel anymore because they will loop towards each other. This means I need the 5 or 7 wires to be terminated with ends that have a cross drilled hole in them. The main wires will thread through these holes. The main wires would be looped at each end with a common sort of sheave and crimps. They will loop over hooks screwed into the walls of the room. The 5 or 7 cross wires would be kept in place by crimping small beads on the main wires to keep them in position. Since this is mostly decorative, the hardware should look much like the cable itself- stainless would be great here. I'll probably use 3/32 wire for all of this.

    The second app is for supporting wires for an outdoor tower which will carry a small vertical axis wind turbine. Mostly decorative also, as the turbine will be designed to look nice more so than produce power. It will of course produce power, but not on a large scale- I'll be happy to get 300 watts out of it in 'high' winds, and 20 watts will be enough to power the led yard lighting system that is planned. Nonetheless, the tower has to safely stand upright even in freak wind speeds. I'll probably use 3/16 aircraft cable for this one. Copper crimps seem like the right thing for these wires.
    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    31,487

    Default

    The McMaster are, as I recall, the Nicopress.

    The limits are not really built-in, you get a gage with the tool that you can use to set the compression. The tool is adjustable.
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sunny So Cal
    Posts
    4,899

    Default

    I used to do alot of wire rope work. Nico press is what I mostly used. I found my clamps but for I tried I cant find my presses LOL One is a manual type. Two pieces of aluminum with five stages of different sizes. The other is a hydraulic type with various dies. Cant find either.

    The hydraulic type is better with stainless steel clamps. JR





    I was wrong. The hand held one was plenty heavy.

    I kinda regret breaking it out of storage for the weight. Just to make a point.

    Oh, it is all off ten pounds, and all steel. .

    Last edited by JRouche; 06-13-2019 at 01:51 AM.
    My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    6,376

    Default

    Nicopress is the way to go. I have one of their big crimp tools for 1/4" wire rope.

    https://www.nicopress.com/

    JL.....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    6,376

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by J Tiers View Post
    The McMaster are, as I recall, the Nicopress.

    The limits are not really built-in, you get a gage with the tool that you can use to set the compression. The tool is adjustable.
    You may have to play around with the crimp tool stop to get the proper amount of compression on each segment. There's also a sequence to follow when you start cramping.

    JL....

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •