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Thread: Puller for plastic wall anchors

  1. #21
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    Jan 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by ikdor View Post
    We have real walls in Europe so you can't push them anywhere, it's a blind hole in solid bricks and mortar.
    That is true but we still have some inside walls that are studs and sheetrock.
    Last edited by Black Forest; 06-12-2019 at 04:00 PM.
    How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ikdor View Post
    We have real walls in Europe so you can't push them anywhere, it's a blind hole in solid bricks and mortar.
    We don't have very many buildings from the 12th century around here.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corbettprime View Post
    We don't have very many buildings from the 12th century around here.
    Our home was built in 1724 and the outside walls are 80cm thick.
    How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

  4. #24
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    Mar 2015
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    Wall anchors I use have a Philips head built into the face.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Forest View Post
    Our home was built in 1724 and the outside walls are 80cm thick.
    Actually, we do have quite a few buildings from the late 17th and 18th centuries that have walls 30 to 36" thick. Adobe. Cool in summer, warm in winter. Sometime I'll tell you about cutting in a new outside door using bobwire.

  6. #26
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    The ones I have a problem with are the bits of 3/4 in lead pipe in a blind hole in the granite wall with a residual rusted off iron spike as remains of the hammer-home rainwater downpipe fixing. It is also hard to find lead pipe now for the replacement.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by RB211 View Post
    Wall anchors I use have a Philips head built into the face.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    That's what I use unless I need to grab a steel stud with a toggle for strength. They come in both plastic and "metal" (some form of zinc cast). Even though they are self drilling I almost always drill a small pilot hole - less issues in unknown plaster, and you know if you hit something you didn't expect. Like these : https://www.zoro.com/primeline-zip-i...waAqq1EALw_wcB

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by lakeside53 View Post
    That's what I use unless I need to grab a steel stud with a toggle for strength. They come in both plastic and "metal" (some form of zinc cast). Even though they are self drilling I almost always drill a small pilot hole - less issues in unknown plaster, and you know if you hit something you didn't expect. Like these : https://www.zoro.com/primeline-zip-i...waAqq1EALw_wcB
    Those are the ones that were all over my walls when we bought the place. Both plastic and metal. They work great too.

  9. #29
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    Use an impact driver. They set to completely flush in seconds. They are rated for like 50 and 75lb each, but that will depend on the gyp board they are in.

  10. #30
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    Well, you will need to plaster over the hole and paint or otherwise refinish it anyway. The professional solution I have seen is a hammer. WHAP and the anchor, plastic or otherwise, is inside the wall. One second or less! Then, back to my first sentence.

    And yes, I did observe this technique being used by actual, professionals in the art of walls. With a bit of practice they can just dimple the wallboard, not make a real hole. Time is money and they could do ten in the time your device takes for one.
    Paul A.

    Make it fit.
    You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

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