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Thread: Correct stone for stoning burrs?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mcgyver View Post
    I don't think flatness matters, what matters something so fine it'll knock the highs off and do about nothing to the rest of it. I use a hard Arkansas stone. After the stalagmites are knocked off, you could scrub for an hour with a hard Arkansas stone not dimensionally change things. The other handy thing is a deburring file - basically a small piece of file to which you've stoned off the tops of the teeth so that only burrs will get touched. I've done a fair bit of scraping and those are two things I do.
    Good of you to bring that up. Now we have to have a thread about what kind of stone is best for stoning off the tops of the teeth of the file.

  2. #12

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    No need to stone the entire surface just the area of the ding or burr.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cameron View Post
    Good of you to bring that up. Now we have to have a thread about what kind of stone is best for stoning off the tops of the teeth of the file.
    I recommend a concrete block, weathered completely exposed, with full ground contact, for 22 months on the north side of two story house, placed six and a half feet* from the foundation.

    * - For a brick veneer house use eight feet as the placement distance.
    (note: these values are valid for locations between twenty five and sixty five degrees latitude.)

  4. #14
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    Buffalo NY USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tungsten dipper View Post
    I'm getting the popcorn.... bet this goes 5 pages.
    Maybe he wanted to see the fireworks. I do have my opinions but I tend to keep them to myself these days, and let everyone else make the noise. I'll just continue the way I always have.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by lynnl View Post
    I recommend a concrete block, weathered completely exposed, with full ground contact, for 22 months on the north side of two story house, placed six and a half feet* from the foundation.

    * - For a brick veneer house use eight feet as the placement distance.
    (note: these values are valid for locations between twenty five and sixty five degrees latitude.)
    Aerated or medium density?

    I'll see what the cheap diamond plastics (I'd say stones but it's pushing the definition too far!) make of a file tomorrow and give that a try. Got to wait for the pair of 3/8" spanners to turn up so I can adjust it anyway.....bloody imperial nuts. I refuse to start on a precision tool by rounding them off with the adjustables or a metric wrench that's too big! At least it seems stable so far. Had an import 100mm frame level and it's just so twitchy, utterly impossible to set and doesn't hold calibration at all.

  6. #16
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    Jan 2004
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    Missouri
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cenedd View Post
    Any old file? I'm just thinking that I've got some that are 40 or so years old that aren't in current use but they're likely to be less sharp than a new one - not totally blunt though.
    It does not really matter, because when you stone the tops of the teeth off, you are "resharpening" the file, developing a new, but different, edge.

    Now, if it has been in the chicken coop or manure pile for a decade, it might be too far gone. But then you'd have appropriate material for use on the popcorn crowd here.............................
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  7. #17
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    Dec 2015
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    If you're going to use the diamond cards to prepare the file by all means use the finer of the two. This topping off is supposed to be fairly delicate.

    I'm thinking also to not use too fine a file for this. Otherwise you'll have an issue with catching the burr to remove it all

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Toronto
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cenedd View Post
    Aerated or medium density?
    l.
    depends whether its pooped on by a European or African swallow

    no idea the specs, but this is the sort of thing to give an idea of size/coarseness. Image below makes it clear what the profile is like after stoning, exaggerated to illustrate it



    .

  9. #19
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    Ashburton, near Christchurch New Zealand
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    You really need three stones which you work against each other to preserve their flatness.

    Just glide the stones over the burr with the lightest of finger pressure.

  10. #20
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    Aug 2009
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    The center of those starrett levels are slightly crowned, in other words the level sets on the outer ends and the center shouldn't touch. So any imperfections towards the center of the level I wouldn't be too concerned about. Set it on a surface plate and see where hits.

    JL.....

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