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Thread: Collet closer tube length

  1. #1
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    Default Collet closer tube length

    A huge thank you to Sparky for sending me his old collet closer. I have to cut the length of the tube down to match my headstock. The question I have is about thread engagement. Do I cut the tube so the collet is engaged by at least three threads in the loose state, or most of the threads are engaged in the tightened state? What is the common practice for this?

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  2. #2
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    Glad you have to shorten the tube, stretching it is much harder.

    "three threads in the loose state" I don't understand this I guess, you need to be able to totally unscrew the collet to be able to remove it. To just remove a part, from the tight position only takes 2-3 turns.

    "most thread engaged in the tightened state" well, that is how I did it but very scientifically. I examined a bunch of collets that I had and found that they seemed to have been engaged by about half their threads in their previous lives as evidenced by the wear/polish on their threads.

    Of extreme importance is that the bar does not run out of threads on the collet before the part is tight !! There is some variance there depending on the part in the collet and if its undersize at all. Leaving a minimum of 3-4 turns remaining at tight position as a minimum would seem like a good guess.

    Does the spindle nose adapter fit ok? That is protrude enough from your spindle? (thats the area that had me a bit worried, even though its MT5 like mine was)
    How about the tapered end piece with the thrust bearing, fit ok?

  3. #3
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    A pro-tip on length is NOT to shorten it, but instead to make a collar to take up the space.

    Once you get that right, and have tried it for a while so you know all is good, then you can, if you want, shorten the tube by the amount of space the collar takes up. jusy be sure you account for any thrust washers or bearings.
    1601

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    Hashim Khan

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky_NY View Post

    Does the spindle nose adapter fit ok? That is protrude enough from your spindle? (thats the area that had me a bit worried, even though its MT5 like mine was)
    How about the tapered end piece with the thrust bearing, fit ok?
    Both seem to fit perfectly. The nose piece sticks out far enough and the rear piece fits perfectly even with the back cover on.

    Quote Originally Posted by J Tiers View Post
    A pro-tip on length is NOT to shorten it, but instead to make a collar to take up the space.

    Once you get that right, and have tried it for a while so you know all is good, then you can, if you want, shorten the tube by the amount of space the collar takes up. jusy be sure you account for any thrust washers or bearings.
    Think I will try that first. I only have one 5c collet at the moment, it's the one Sparky sent.

  5. #5
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    post 3 has it right make up a slip on spacer. that way you can modify the spacer to get it right. I used a collect setup made for a southbend 9 in my 12 inch atlas it took a 1 1/2 inch spacer. now that I have a southbendd 9 I just slide the spacer off..

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob308 View Post
    post 3 has it right make up a slip on spacer. that way you can modify the spacer to get it right. I used a collect setup made for a southbend 9 in my 12 inch atlas it took a 1 1/2 inch spacer. now that I have a southbendd 9 I just slide the spacer off..
    This tube is a good 6 to 8 inches longer than needed. I can cut it down so it only has a couple of extra inches to play with.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RB211 View Post
    This tube is a good 6 to 8 inches longer than needed. I can cut it down so it only has a couple of extra inches to play with.
    Sounds like a good plan. Making up a spacer is a good idea too. Don't know if you are going to use that POS wheel for now but a spacer will leave enough meat to change out that wheel in the future also.

    Glad to hear things are fitting up nicely ! I am never that lucky with my projects.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Tiers View Post
    A pro-tip on length is NOT to shorten it, but instead to make a collar to take up the space.

    Once you get that right, and have tried it for a while so you know all is good, then you can, if you want, shorten the tube by the amount of space the collar takes up. jusy be sure you account for any thrust washers or bearings.
    Yup, Jerry nailed that one, for once Kidding. Great idea an I have one here that is exactly that. Great advice J.... JR
    My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky_NY View Post
    Sounds like a good plan. Making up a spacer is a good idea too. Don't know if you are going to use that POS wheel for now but a spacer will leave enough meat to change out that wheel in the future also.

    Glad to hear things are fitting up nicely ! I am never that lucky with my projects.
    A bigger wheel is in order, but also a hand wheel that mounts to the D1-4 spindle. My lathe doesn't have a foot brake. Could just mount the face plate..

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by RB211 View Post
    A bigger wheel is in order, but also a hand wheel that mounts to the D1-4 spindle. My lathe doesn't have a foot brake. Could just mount the face plate..

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    Why do you want a handwheel on the chuck side of the spindle? To loosen and tighten the collet I would just put the lathe in backgear which hold the spindle well against rotation.

    There are some pics of a Royal drawbar here https://www.ebay.com/itm/Royal-Produ...gAAOSwj4hcvgTx

    I had a Royal years ago and their wheel was very nice, it was rubber coated.
    Last edited by Sparky_NY; 07-04-2019 at 09:13 PM.

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