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Thread: A question about steel automobile wheels

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Tiers View Post
    Eh? What?

    It's the nuts that are frozen solid..... the wheel comes off no issue. Stuck as in the nut twists off the stud, maybe......

    Discussing "torque" with respect to lug nuts is also pretty funny. Ha Ha.

    Torque has no meaning with lug nuts.

    At the tire shops, they put the nuts back on with an impact wrench, and let it run. They can get stretch torque dry, it's practically stir welding the nut to the studs. Don't talk to me about torquing lug nuts....
    I believe what gambler was referring to was when alloy wheels get bonded onto the steel hub due to corrosion. Hub piloted wheels only aggravate this situation.

    I think that you need to seek out a more progressive and professional tire shop. Seriously!
    When I get my tires/wheels changed the only time an impact is used is when the wheels are removed. All mounting hardware is wire brushed clean, mounting surfaces on the wheel hub, face, and spindle are also wire brushed wire using an air powered tool to ensure a clean mount surface. The wheels are then torqued with a torque wrench and are-torque reminder is placed conspicuously in the vehicle and a verbal reminder is also given before the car is released. This is critical with aluminum wheels as they will need it in spite of all of the extra mount care.

    These steps weren't taken in the good old days but up here at least it is today on all vehicles.

    Hey I'm not the one twisting wheel studs off at midnight out in the boonies, not that I haven't been there, after having been the victim of shoddy tire shops in the past.
    Don't accept substandard work.
    Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willy View Post
    ,,,,,,,

    I think that you need to seek out a more progressive and professional tire shop. Seriously!
    .........
    Yah...... Bubba works at all of them..... that guy is the busiest SOB I know. This is 3rd world nation of Missouri, not some high-falutin big city somewhere in the US.

    That's why I do my own tire changing.... take the wheel in separately, and they do not get to mount it....
    Last edited by J Tiers; 07-09-2019 at 12:07 PM.
    1601

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  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willy View Post
    I believe what gambler was referring to was when alloy wheels get bonded onto the steel hub due to corrosion. Hub piloted wheels only aggravate this situation.

    I think that you need to seek out a more progressive and professional tire shop. Seriously!
    When I get my tires/wheels changed the only time an impact is used is when the wheels are removed. All mounting hardware is wire brushed clean, mounting surfaces on the wheel hub, face, and spindle are also wire brushed wire using an air powered tool to ensure a clean mount surface. The wheels are then torqued with a torque wrench and are-torque reminder is placed conspicuously in the vehicle and a verbal reminder is also given before the car is released. This is critical with aluminum wheels as they will need it in spite of all of the extra mount care.

    These steps weren't taken in the good old days but up here at least it is today on all vehicles.

    Hey I'm not the one twisting wheel studs off at midnight out in the boonies, not that I haven't been there, after having been the victim of shoddy tire shops in the past.
    Don't accept substandard work.
    exactly. bmw, audi , mbz owners know what I mean.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edwin Dirnbeck View Post
    HELP,I am working on an invention for mounting wheels on cars and trailers. Is their any agreed upon actual thru hole size for the wheel studs.As an example,my 16 inch trailer has 1/2 20 studs . My wheels have a .600 .615 thru holes. The wheels locate on a taper on the lug nuts,so the actual thru hole is clearance only.Is it whatever some manufacturer thinks is OK ?.Or ere there standards? Thank you Edwin Dirnbeck
    Edwin, getting back on track again.
    You asked about thru hole diameter on wheels in relation to a new concept for mounting wheels that you are working on. Does this involve a pilot pin in order to locate and help position the wheel more easily?

    If so these do already exist in various forms. The heavy duty truck versions help to locate the hub piloted wheel much more easily as they thread onto the existing studs in order to help facilitate wheel mounting more accurately and they help to prevent damage to the wheel and hub pilot, never mind the installer.



    These are the ones I've seen used on cars, and gambler may be familiar with them too as they are used on a lot of German cars. These cars typically use wheel bolts instead of studs and the brake rotors are separate from the hub. When new, the rotors are held onto the hub with one tiny screw, in the real world these usually get broken off making wheel installation difficult. Because now you have to line up 3 holes while holding the wheel in one hand and trying to start a bolt with the other. Inserting a couple of studs first makes the job much easier. Inserting two of these alignment pins through the rotor and into the hub allows one to merely slide the wheel/tire onto the pins while starting the other wheel bolts.

    Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
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  5. #35
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    yah willy I have those. much easier then without

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by CCWKen View Post
    My Snap-On wheel balancer has a wheel lift built into it. You could just as easily use it to mount large wheels. I don't understand why you would want to use the mount holes to lift a wheel/tire. There are all types of tire OD lift assist tools. Also, not all vehicles use studs--Some use bolts.
    My tool would be a mass market tool selling for about $35 . How much does your examples sell for? Edwin Dirnbeck

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Tiers View Post
    That's the reason to use "Never-Seez" on lug nuts, being sure to get it on the tapered surface.

    Abd, before some kind soul solemnly warns me that using any "lube" on the lug nuts will cause them to back off and cause the wheel to come off...... NO it will not....
    Never Seize, grease, oil, ect won't make the lug nuts unscrew themselves, but if the lug nuts are the open type, the grease can and will pick up road dirt and brake dust which will do a dandy job of ruining the wheel stud threads when the lug nuts are removed.
    Also, all wheel fasteners are torque-spec'd dry, not wet. Big difference.
    Here in the Rust Belt, good techs put a thin film of Never Seize on the wheel mounting surface- that is where corrosion between the alloy wheel and the iron brake rotor (or drum) will cold-weld the wheel on to the point the wheel will have to be sledged off.
    Of course, rotating the tires every six months (and applying a dab of Never Seize) will make the inevitable 4 AM tire change go a lot quicker.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edwin Dirnbeck View Post
    My tool would be a mass market tool selling for about $35 . How much does your examples sell for? Edwin Dirnbeck
    As a practical matter, any tire up to tractor-trailer size can be presented to the hub with a couple of pieces of two by four used as a lever.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by gambler View Post
    for you guys having problems removing stuck wheels, loosen lug nuts or lug bolts one or two turns with a breaker bar, then rock car side to side. pops them loose every time.
    Yep. Old shop trick.
    If that doesn't work, loosen the nuts and drop the car about three inches by opening the hydraulic jack quick.
    If that doesn't work, loosen the nuts and drive the car in circles at low speed in the parking lot. You'll hear the wheels 'pop'.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarlByrns View Post
    Never Seize, grease, oil, ect won't make the lug nuts unscrew themselves, but if the lug nuts are the open type, the grease can and will pick up road dirt and brake dust which will do a dandy job of ruining the wheel stud threads when the lug nuts are removed.
    Also, all wheel fasteners are torque-spec'd dry, not wet. Big difference.
    Here in the Rust Belt, good techs put a thin film of Never Seize on the wheel mounting surface- that is where corrosion between the alloy wheel and the iron brake rotor (or drum) will cold-weld the wheel on to the point the wheel will have to be sledged off.
    Of course, rotating the tires every six months (and applying a dab of Never Seize) will make the inevitable 4 AM tire change go a lot quicker.
    Apples and agates...

    Steel wheels, iron hubs, steel studs, steel nuts. Not hub-centric, instead centered by the nuts, which gall and freeze solid on the wheel recesses and/or the threads.

    A dab of never-seez on the HUB will have just about as much effect on removing the wheel as pouring the engine oil on the back bumper has on lubing the crankshaft.
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

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