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Thread: Leaky ZX-45 mill

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Southwestern Ontario, Canada
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    Default Leaky ZX-45 mill

    No big surprise there it is a common enough thing. It has been dripping slightly for a long time but in the last couple of weeks the drip is now a flood. I am assuming that the spindle bearing seals are gone, that is what most people complain of. It seems that all the manufacturers of these mills make them slightly different and getting replacement parts through the supplier that it came from is generally not possible. Even if I could get something out of a place like Grizzly there isn't any guarantee that they use the same parts in there mills. Would these be common parts that can be bought from a bearing supplier?
    The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

    Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

  2. #2

    Default

    The seals seem similar across the range of resellers for the RF-45 type mills, as do parts, and the seals are available from third party sources.
    I think your best bet is to open the head and see if the seals are installed where you can make out the printing on the rubber,
    in my case the seals were installed with the face down, I've also seen pictures of Grizzly versions where the seals are installed face up.
    You also might be surprised at what you find in there if you've never done any pre maintenance.

    Try these places for seals -

    https://www.avxseals.com/

    https://www.theoringstore.com/index....ndex&cPath=700

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    20

    Default

    All bearings and seals should be easily available at any bearing shop, they use the cheapest parts that are available, to make these machines at such a low price.

  4. #4
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    If any of you have had this problem, is there any other place that the oil can leak from. The manuals exploded parts view is the typical excellent Chinese type, oil seal are labelled as air seals.
    The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

    Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

  5. #5

    Default

    I haven't had any oil leak problem since my mill is currently dismantled and in the process of re assembling
    after some through cleaning.
    The mill head is basically a cast iron tub, other than the oil drain plug and the speed selector / gear
    selector shafts, and the quill power feed selector, that have openings into the head, there is only two places
    that would cause a oil leak in the spindle.
    The oil seals themselves and from the end cap that the oil seals are in, the end cap is rtv gasketed in place.
    Seals are # 6 the end cap is # 5 in the drawing from my manual.

  6. #6
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    Default

    So it pretty much has to be the seals. How did you fine disassembling the head. Difficult, straight forward and what is needed to install the new seals. Any special tools etc.

    Your drawing is much better then mine.
    The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

    Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Ct
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    Default

    There's a gasket under #5 in my old one, leaks like a sieve.
    Len

  8. #8
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    I believe the standard repair is to use a sealant like permatex instead of a gasket.
    The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

    Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by loose nut View Post
    So it pretty much has to be the seals. How did you fine disassembling the head. Difficult, straight forward and what is needed to install the new seals. Any special tools etc.

    Your drawing is much better then mine.
    You'll probably need an assortment of metric tools ; allen wrenches, sockets, and wrenches
    It's sort of straight forward, remove the motor, the top cover of the head has either RTV gasket or a paper/rubber gasket,
    mine has the paper/rubber kind so you'll have to see what kind you have on your machine. A box cutter blade should take care of either one.
    There are also 2 tapered alignment pins in the cover, they're odd in that they have a M5 threaded end.
    I used plastic mold wedges to lift up the cover since the gear shaft end bearings are a tight slip fit, tapping the
    wedges in at the four corners took the cover off easy.



    Note there are 2 plastic caps with O rings in the top cover covering two of the speed and ratio gear shaft bearings, you can leave them be or drive
    them out after the cover is off, helps that they're out when putting the cover back on, you can see if the bearings are aligned to the hole.
    Drop the spindle, I did on mine since I was doing a fine clean out of the mill, it also gives you more access to install the seals.

    I decided to pull the seals in with a jig rather than take part # 5 ( end cap ) off and press in the seals and RTV the cap back on,
    the reason being is that I see no way of aligning that end cap with seals back in place properly since the splined tube ( # 57 ) that drives the
    spindle goes into oil seals in the end cap and the bearings that go into the cover.

    I made a jig to fit in the inside groove of the seal, I'll use a threaded rod to draw in the seals thru the quill bore, I'm doing that in the next hour or so
    so I'll post my results.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by loose nut View Post
    The manuals exploded parts view is the typical excellent Chinese type, oil seal are labelled as air seals.
    "look for exit spot on air seal, spot maybe shy so entice out in open, happy seal not have exit, be sure to use new grease on seal engagement or you could dishonor family,

    Never smack seal with sharp objection, always caress seal when installations... "

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