Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 25

Thread: Removing a drill chuck arbor?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4,440

    Default Removing a drill chuck arbor?

    I'm aware of the use of wedges for removing a drill chuck arbor... but how do you remove one where there's no lip or step for the wedges to push on?



    This is a big Jacobs 20N I got from a member here, and it came with a ridiculously undersized MT2 arbor. I want to replace that with an MT4 in order to use this on my big 18" Springfield lathe, but I'm kind of at a loss as to how to do so.

    There's no hole in under the jaws to push through, there's no lip solid enough to work with wedges, and short of welding something on, I can't see how I could hold on to the arbor firmly enough to push the chuck off.

    I'm not averse to welding something onto the arbor- I'll have no use for it after it's off the chuck- but before I go that far, I figured I'd ask here, see if there's a common, accepted method for this kind of thing.

    Any ideas?

    Doc.
    Doc's Machine. (Probably not what you expect.)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    SW Kansas
    Posts
    347

    Default

    This is the best idea I have seen. http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/thr...ll+chuck+water
    That’s a good looking chuck.

  3. #3

    Default

    Adapt the MT2 to MT4 and stick it in the tailstock. With the jaws open, stick a 1/4" or 3/8" or whatever bit in the lathe chuck and drill the jacob's chuck right in the middle. Support it somehow and punch the arbor out with a good whack. And when you're done, sell the MT2 arbor on ebay. That's a rare piece. I had to make one for a 20N.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    4,019

    Default

    The method recommended by Jacobs is to drill a cross hole in the arbor to insert a roll pin giving a shoulder to use chuck removal wedges.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Chilliwack, BC, Canada
    Posts
    5,575

    Default

    On a chuck with that big a JT perhaps check to see if the end of the arbor isn't already visible down thru the jaws? I know it's obvious but just wondering if you checked already since you didn't mention it?

    Otherwise I'm rather liking TMB's suggestion.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    9,615

    Default

    If the cross drill / pin doesn't work cut it off, drill it out and bore the center. Two choices - tap and thread in whatever to pull it out, or keep boring at the correct angle until there is little left. It will come out.

    Drilling through from the jaw side and punch out is is easiest.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4,440

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by The Metal Butcher View Post
    Adapt the MT2 to MT4 and stick it in the tailstock. With the jaws open, stick a 1/4" or 3/8" or whatever bit in the lathe chuck and drill the jacob's chuck right in the middle. Support it somehow and punch the arbor out with a good whack.
    -This was the method I was heading for when I decided to ask if there was a more correct/official way.

    I'd hoped there was an existing hole, but I just pressed apart an 8N for a thorough derusting, and there was no such hole in that one.

    Doc.
    Doc's Machine. (Probably not what you expect.)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Somerset UK
    Posts
    2,445

    Default

    With that type of chuck, Metal Butchers drilling method is by far the easiest, I would go for a 1/2" hole to use a nice big punch, or better still, a press. Drilling will not work with most keyless chucks, however, as there is part of the mechanism in the centre.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    6,572

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DR View Post
    The method recommended by Jacobs is to drill a cross hole in the arbor to insert a roll pin giving a shoulder to use chuck removal wedges.
    Well, that pretty much ruins the arbor if you wanted to use it on another chuck. I've never heard of that method before. And if the roll pin bend or shears or the arbor snaps, then what?? Some of those arbors can be stuck in there pretty good.

    The best way would be to drill a hole through the jaw side and press it out.

    JL..............

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    6,916

    Default

    I know that it's probably been mentioned before, I think in the other thread linked to previously, but has anybody successfully used a drill chuck to hold an end mill when side milling? Come on don't be proud, I think we've all been there at one point or another in our early "learning" stage.
    Certainly not an elegant solution but a very effective one I'm sure, and the bonus is that no drilling is required. If slower speeds are used in conjunction with wrapping the chuck in a rag no harm is done. Using a drill press instead of a more rigid mill will surely start the chatter that successfully sets the chuck free from the arbor.

    Don't laugh, it worked a treat last time I was confronted with a similar scenario.

    Edited to add: Of course this will probably only work if you can retain the arbor with a drawbar as it will likely release at the MT 2 taper first, very important detail I forgot. Not sure if the OP has that option.
    Last edited by Willy; 07-16-2019 at 10:35 AM.
    Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
    Bad Decisions Make Good Stories

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •