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Thread: Removing a drill chuck arbor?

  1. #11
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    Just because you got away with milling with a drill chuck is no reason to condone an unsafe practice. There are plenty of stupid and na´ve people looking at what is said on this forum and believing every thing they see and hear.

  2. #12
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    Re-read my post. I said "successfully" used this technique. In no way should this be construed as an accepted practice. Anybody that reads my post and interprets this as an approved practice has no business in a shop. Sheesh!!!
    Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
    Bad Decisions Make Good Stories

  3. #13
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    Sep 2015
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    On a keyed chuck drill through the back wall of the chuck. Put a pin through the hole and use it to press the arbor out.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Nickel View Post
    -This was the method I was heading for when I decided to ask if there was a more correct/official way.

    I'd hoped there was an existing hole, but I just pressed apart an 8N for a thorough derusting, and there was no such hole in that one.

    Doc.
    Why the hell Jacobs didn't add that hole is beyond me. I guess so they could sell those stupid wedges. I've never used them, and I probably never will. Simply no need with a hole in the chuck body. I'd finish the job for Jacobs.

    Quote Originally Posted by JoeLee View Post
    Well, that pretty much ruins the arbor if you wanted to use it on another chuck. I've never heard of that method before. And if the roll pin bend or shears or the arbor snaps, then what?? Some of those arbors can be stuck in there pretty good.

    The best way would be to drill a hole through the jaw side and press it out.

    JL..............
    I don't like that idea either because it ruins a very rare arbor, and if you need to change it again, you're back to the same process. With the hole I can hot swap arbors if I need the chuck on a machine I normally don't, like the Bridgeport.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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    Another way to remove them would be to turn a thread on the small end just long enough for a nut and use a piece or tube or pipe slipped over it to push it off. #2 MT's small end is .5720" so enough to thread to 9/16" or the more common 1/2".

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    On the Oil Coast,USA
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    Measure the diameter of the arbor in the area of the reduced diameter.Bore a slug of steel to that diameter and part it off the same length as the reduced section.Split with a hacksaw into to halves,place them around the shank and weld them together.Now use your wedges.

    Alternate method,weld a nut to the shank and use your wedges.

    Alternate method #2 weld a 1/2-20 bolt to the end of the shank,slip a short piece of pipe over the shank,add a couple thick washers and a nut and jack the shank out.

    Who cares about a $10 shank enough to spend a half day working on it??
    I just need one more tool,just one!

  7. #17
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    Sep 2015
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    NW Illinois
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    You could have drilled out the back of the chuck and pressed out the arbor in the time spent reading all these replies. BTW for keyed chucks used on portable drills with reversing motors there is already a hole through the back of the chuck. The chuck is retained by a LH flat head socket screw.

  8. #18
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    Jan 2003
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    4,020

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Metal Butcher View Post
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    I don't like that idea either because it ruins a very rare arbor, and if you need to change it again, you're back to the same process. With the hole I can hot swap arbors if I need the chuck on a machine I normally don't, like the Bridgeport.
    A cross hole drilled through an arbor does not ruin it.

    BTW, I've noticed some Jacobs brand arbors are turned small right under the chuck mount. Imports usually are not. Not sure exactly why.....

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by wierdscience View Post
    Measure the diameter of the arbor in the area of the reduced diameter.Bore a slug of steel to that diameter and part it off the same length as the reduced section.Split with a hacksaw into to halves,place them around the shank and weld them together.Now use your wedges.

    Alternate method,weld a nut to the shank and use your wedges.

    Alternate method #2 weld a 1/2-20 bolt to the end of the shank,slip a short piece of pipe over the shank,add a couple thick washers and a nut and jack the shank out.

    Who cares about a $10 shank enough to spend a half day working on it??
    All of your suggestions take more work than drilling a hole in the chuck. Also if you can find a MT2 to JT5 shank for $10 I'll buy you a beer.

    Quote Originally Posted by DR View Post
    A cross hole drilled through an arbor does not ruin it.

    BTW, I've noticed some Jacobs brand arbors are turned small right under the chuck mount. Imports usually are not. Not sure exactly why.....
    A hole in the chuck causes no harm at all.

  10. #20
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    Jan 2014
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    Edmonton Alberta
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    When I removed 4 shanks from Chucks a while back only had 25% success with freezing expansion,I had posted about after the first one which worked fine.One came apart with threading and jacking out,last two I pressed out and 25 Ton Dake was at it's Max Plus to remove them.

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