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Thread: lathe and mill oil???

  1. #1
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    Default lathe and mill oil???

    Some guys but Mobil DTE Heavy Medium Hydraulic oil to use in there gear head equipment, it is suppose to be the best. Is it really that much better then any other ISO 68 (SAE 32) non-detergent Hydraulic oil that can be bought at any farm store. The Mobil stuff is usually a special order here and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ so I would prefer to just get some locally available oil if it will work well enough.

    How often do you guys change the oil in your machines. The manual says once a year but I'm assuming that is for heavy use in a commercial shop and not intermittent use at home???
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  2. #2
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    Have to buy some myself, apparently Tractor supply has the stuff others recommended. Will have to look at my Monarch manual.

  3. #3
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    I try to change my oils once per year in machines and compressors but sometimes it's many years.... The oil coming looks the same as the day it went in. I have 5 gallon containers of all the DTE types and the generic AW RO hydraulic oils - can't say there is much difference for my type of use. Compressors in your area may need more attention if you are in a humid climate (i'm not) as water will be into the oil.

  4. #4
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    Frankly I can't see the difference between the Mobil oil and the local store brands. I would go with the Tractor Supply stuff and change it religiously on schedule. Maybe Canadian Tire has it? My employer buys the Mobil in 50-gallon drums, but nobody has ever accused them of having common sense. They have been accused of having too much money.

  5. #5
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    It's a gearbox. When you drove a rear wheel drive car with a separate gearbox what did you put in it? If someone had told you to put hydraulic fluid or back axle diff oil in it where would you have told them to go? How often did you change it - convert the miles to hours driving.

  6. #6
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    McMaster sells specific purpose oils for machines: spindle oil, way oil, etc. I bought some gallon jugs and I figure they will probably be a lifetime supply in my shop. YMMV!
    Paul A.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baz View Post
    It's a gearbox. When you drove a rear wheel drive car with a separate gearbox what did you put in it? If someone had told you to put hydraulic fluid or back axle diff oil in it where would you have told them to go? How often did you change it - convert the miles to hours driving.
    I don't think that is a good analogy although I agree with the sentiment. My truck uses an Asin-Warner (toyota) transmission and conventional Hotchkiss type rear axle. The manual specifically warns you to only use 30-wt engine oil in the gearbox. Using traditional gear oil *will* blow it up by springing the case open because the tolerances are so close. I change the gear oils etc at 100,000 mi, engine oil every 4 mos.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickel-city-fab View Post
    I don't think that is a good analogy although I agree with the sentiment. My truck uses an Asin-Warner (toyota) transmission and conventional Hotchkiss type rear axle. The manual specifically warns you to only use 30-wt engine oil in the gearbox. Using traditional gear oil *will* blow it up by springing the case open because the tolerances are so close. I change the gear oils etc at 100,000 mi, engine oil every 4 mos.
    I would very much doubt that the manual states that it will blow up due to the case springing open due to using an 80w90 gear oil in the transmission. An 80w90 gear oil has the same viscosity characteristics as an SAE 20w50 engine oil. Gear oils and engine oils use a different scale for their viscosity ratings and hence a lot of confusion ensues. The 30w engine oil will be plenty thick at 0F so one can assume it isn't the viscosity that is the problem.

    I would hazard an educated guess that the transmission uses either silver bearing metals or yellow metals in some of it's components that do not not play well with some of the potassium-borate, sulfur-phosphate, and chlorine temperature activated EP additives used in some but not all GL-5 rated hypoid gear oils. The manufactures don't expect or want you to try and find a suitable hypoid EP gear oil so they simplify the requirement by closing that door altogether.

    These additive are corrosive to certain metals at the elevated temps commonly seen in automotive transmissions. No reason for alarm if the transmission is capable of using them but a slow death to those that aren't, so manufactures go out of their way to warn the end user to avoid them for this reason.
    Last edited by Willy; 08-11-2019 at 05:59 PM.
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  9. #9
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    In the lathe gearbox I run straight 30W non-detergent - you don't want impurities suspended; you do want them to sink to the bottom.

    Oh, I add 5-10% moly additive to gearcases, be they automotive manual transmissions, final drives or machine gearboxes. They run quieter and seem to last forever.

    Mike

  10. #10
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    The manual does not state that the trans will blow up, but plenty of guys have done it running 90-wt.. There are entire rebuild threads for example on Jeep forum. The manual does state to use 30-wt engine oil.

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