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Thread: Ethanol in pump gas damages 2 cycle engines..???????

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    Oregon Coast
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    1,515

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    I just use what the User Manual says. Always seems to work.
    _____________________________________________

    I would rather have tools that I never use, than not have a tool I need.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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    1,042

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    Quote Originally Posted by lugnut View Post
    I just use what the User Manual says. Always seems to work.
    That's crazy talk.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Panama
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    22

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    Internet slow tonight so I admit I have not read all the replies , yrs ago they talked about bring that crap to Panama so I did a little research , something I found but never tried as it did not come here was washing the fuel ,
    they took one of those 5 gallon water jugs that sit upside down on the coolers and put 1/2 gallon of water in it , took a felt pen and marked the water level , then added 4gallons of gas and shook it and let it sit , the alcohol is attracted to the water , now check the line for the half gallon of water , it should have moved up as it now contains the alcohol , then siphon the washed gas off and put it in a gas can ,, and for as much gas as we use around home for a weedeater it should last a while

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    1,328

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    Two strokes are getting a bad wrap! The 10% mandated pump gas is not detrimental to two cycle engines at all. Nada, Zip, nothing. You guys are barking at the wind.

    Alcohol IS hard on rubber parts and some metals commonly found on small engines. But two stroke or four, it's those parts that are suffering, and has nothing to do with "Two strokes being damaged".

    I live an enchanted life, from the tales of lament I read on this and similar threads.

    I have my share of small engines. Weed whacker, multiple chain saws, portable generator, lawn mowers both two and four stroke. Back-pac leaf blower, The usual rural assemblage.

    I have No issues with any of them and I don't use stabile or anything of that nature.

    I do use MIX gas and oil, even a light mix in the four strokes when put up for the season.

    And when I say put up for the season, That's just fill the tank and set the tool aside.

    Sure, sometimes, when the tool is pulled out for use, the air and fuel screws take some fiddling to get the engine to run it's best. But that was the same with "good gas" too.

    I'm thinking it's the mix that saves everything from the troubles that others seem afflicted with.

    Like I said, I live an enchanted life.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Friesland, Netherlands
    Posts
    2,290

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    On small stuff (weed whackers, chainsaws, petrol hedge trimmers) I now use Aspen fuels. i initially didn't like the idea of paying more for fuel - it's about 2.5 Euros per liter in Holland, against 95 octane pump fuel for 1.5 Euros, but based on ease of starting and generally less hassle, it's worth it to me. I use the machines occasionally, and I like it if they actually start when I need them.

    The Aspen website says it contains no alcohol, and makes various other claims - it cools the planet, baby otters can breathe the exhaust fumes etc. Whatever; it helps with starting, so it's fine by me.

    Ian
    All of the gear, no idea...

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    USA MD 21030
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    I was wondering if Coleman fuel (white gas) could be used instead of unleaded gasoline, but apparently it is much lower octane (around 50), so it would be subject to pre-ignition and harmful detonation (knock). Perhaps the engine could be modified to work by reducing compression ratio, perhaps just by using two or three head gaskets and maybe timing adjustment. Coleman fuel might be a little cheaper (about $9/gal), and more easily available in some areas, but probably not worth the effort. Better to simply use the E-10 or E-15 pump gas, and perhaps drain it after use.

    https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111789

    Another idea might be to modify the engine to run on kerosene. Some older lawn mower and tractor engines were made to do so, and regular gas engines could be modified. It basically needs to use heat to vaporize the kerosene, and such engines had a small gas tank to get the engine started and warmed up. Then it switched to kerosene, which was pre-heated using exhaust heat. Some engines even had a third tank which held water, which was introduced to the mix at high throttle. However, this likely would work only on 4 cycle engines.

    https://www.smokstak.com/library/tec...ine-engine-23/

  7. #57
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    Sep 2013
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    1,328

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    Quote Originally Posted by PStechPaul View Post
    I was wondering if Coleman fuel (white gas) could be used instead of unleaded gasoline, but apparently it is much lower octane (around 50), so it would be subject to pre-ignition and harmful detonation (knock). Perhaps the engine could be modified to work by reducing compression ratio, perhaps just by using two or three head gaskets and maybe timing adjustment. Coleman fuel might be a little cheaper (about $9/gal), and more easily available in some areas, but probably not worth the effort. Better to simply use the E-10 or E-15 pump gas, and perhaps drain it after use.

    https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111789

    Another idea might be to modify the engine to run on kerosene. Some older lawn mower and tractor engines were made to do so, and regular gas engines could be modified. It basically needs to use heat to vaporize the kerosene, and such engines had a small gas tank to get the engine started and warmed up. Then it switched to kerosene, which was pre-heated using exhaust heat. Some engines even had a third tank which held water, which was introduced to the mix at high throttle. However, this likely would work only on 4 cycle engines.

    https://www.smokstak.com/library/tec...ine-engine-23/
    Can you say "HARD TO START?" With both options.

    Wicked hard to start.

    Even TVO burning tractors started on gasoline, then switched over to the hot plate when up to temperature. And don't forget to switch back prior to shut down. Dad will be mad if you do!

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    USA MD 21030
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    All the more reason to use the new lithium powered tools. They start almost instantly, don't need to idle, produce no air pollution, have much less noise and vibration, can sit for months without attention (maybe just a trickle charge), and can be easily repaired or rebuilt. Cost of batteries and the tools themselves are dropping to be pretty much on par with mid-range 2 cycle tools, and you can get a variety of tools that use interchangeable battery packs.

  9. #59
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    15,408

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    Quote Originally Posted by PStechPaul View Post
    produce no air pollution,.
    so just like an electric car - the batteries charge themselves? why did it take them so long to figure this out for power tools too... ???

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    USA MD 21030
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    You obtain electric power from 100% wind and solar, as I have been for years. No, I don't have solar panels on my roof or windmills - my electric bills provide funds for local and remote alternative energy plants. Many people I know with electric cars DO have their own solar power systems, and they often return excess power to the grid. If you have reasonable insolation, a 100 watt solar panel system can charge a typical 100 watt (40V 2.5 A-h) battery pack in an hour or two.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/100-wa...kit-63585.html



    https://www.harborfreight.com/40v-li...mer-63289.html


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