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Thread: New Bandsaw (NEW new)

  1. #1
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    Default New Bandsaw (NEW new)

    I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright bandsaw.)

    I think I know why they had them on sale. The title of the listing says its 3 phase. You have to read down into the description to see they sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wired to plug into a single phase outlet. I think most small shop and home shop people saw "3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

    I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like the way the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1 inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there a big difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.

    Then there is pitch. The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just fine for most things. I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops aluminum. Looks like about 12 pitch. I can't recall, but it might be variable pitch 12/14 or something like that. I don't want to have a bunch of different blades hanging on the wall. Just one spare that will allow me to keep going if I break one while I order another spare. It will get used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2 inch thick. It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36 from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch. Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003. Now I usually cut those with a circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.

    I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob La Londe View Post
    I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright bandsaw.)

    I think I know why they had them on sale. The title of the listing says its 3 phase. You have to read down into the description to see they sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wired to plug into a single phase outlet. I think most small shop and home shop people saw "3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

    I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like the way the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1 inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there a big difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.

    Then there is pitch. The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just fine for most things. I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops aluminum. Looks like about 12 pitch. I can't recall, but it might be variable pitch 12/14 or something like that. I don't want to have a bunch of different blades hanging on the wall. Just one spare that will allow me to keep going if I break one while I order another spare. It will get used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2 inch thick. It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36 from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch. Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003. Now I usually cut those with a circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.

    I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.
    Don't you want three teeth to be engaged at least with the metal stock you use most commonly? For my needs would be closer to a finer tooth count.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  3. #3

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    I love a vari-tooth blade.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by RB211 View Post
    Don't you want three teeth to be engaged at least with the metal stock you use most commonly? For my needs would be closer to a finer tooth count.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    That's what I have read. I mostly cut 1/2 and 3/4 6061, so a 4-6 TPI blade would do the trick, but I do cut other things. LOL.
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob La Londe View Post
    That's what I have read. I mostly cut 1/2 and 3/4 6061, so a 4-6 TPI blade would do the trick, but I do cut other things. LOL.
    I like my 6-8 tpi blade (4X6 HF). If I'm cutting something thin I relieve the feed pressure a bit manually. I have an 18t hanging on the wall - it's been hanging for a long time.

    -js
    There are no stupid questions. But there are lots of stupid answers. This is the internet.

  6. #6
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    Congrats on the new saw,I use Doall Silencer GP 10-14 3/8" for 80% of my cutting on my old 1950 Doall Vertical.When cutting thick material over 1/2" I use 6 tooth,I have 3/4" blades but never seem to use them.My saw is 1hp with original reeves variable speed 2 speed gearbox 50-1600 rpm,it's the most used machine in my shop.

  7. #7
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    I don't understand 3/4 blade and 1 inch on same saw ?
    If it's made for 1 inch and you ran 3/4, your teeth would be contacting the wheel....as opposed to being in the air.
    This usually results in 2 things..first the set gets destroyed, making blade useless. And it cuts into the wheel leaving a low spot.

  8. #8

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    It's adjustable 754. At OP, I don't use my dad's bandsaw much because the blade is always to coarse. I always use a power hacksaw for big square cuts. His is an 8 tooth, 18 is much more useful for me. Coarse blades will definitely show an advantage for thick stock, especially in Aluminum with a much faster SF. I'll try to post the SFM and blade chart for the grob, I think it has good recommendations.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 754 View Post
    I don't understand 3/4 blade and 1 inch on same saw ?
    If it's made for 1 inch and you ran 3/4, your teeth would be contacting the wheel....as opposed to being in the air.
    This usually results in 2 things..first the set gets destroyed, making blade useless. And it cuts into the wheel leaving a low spot.
    Verticals have rubber or urethane on wheels, teeth are allways contacting them not shouldered like most horizontals.

  10. #10
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    Well, I had hoped to reach a compromise blade to leave on "most" of the time, but I broke down and bought two blades for the new saw. A 5/8 and a 10/14. I looked at buying some coil stock, but I just don't want carbon steel blades. I cut just enough medium hard steel to make them pretty useless for me. The coils of decent quality bimetal were just a little more than I wanted to spend right now after spending all my pocket money on the saw.
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

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