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Thread: New Bandsaw (NEW new)

  1. #11
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    I am still kicking myself for not bidding aggressively enough on that sawzall. Interested in hearing your field report.

  2. #12
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    Sawzall? Are you talking about a Milwaukee (tm) recipro saw or something else?
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob La Londe View Post
    Sawzall? Are you talking about a Milwaukee (tm) recipro saw or something else?
    Do-All. My bad.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  4. #14
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    I have a Wholesale Tool 14 inch bandsaw - wish it were an 18 inch - I would like to have more height between the table and the upper guide*. Bought my saw on eBay about 20 years ago for a reasonable price, saw made in Taiwan, back in the day when the cheap machines were made there. My saw uses a reeves drive and I keep a bi-metal 14-18 variable tooth 1/2 inch blade on it and basically never change the blade speed. I picked up a Delta/Powermatic 14 inch wood saw with a riser for cheap and I keep a 4 tpi HSS blade in it for cutting any aluminum more that 3/8 thick.

    * the reason for wanting more height is that at one of my previous employers, several of the bandsaws had a tiny removable base that could be attached with a clamp the the saw's table. The tiny base was about 1 inch square on a 6 or so inch high U-shaped pedestal and had a convex upper surface for the small base. One could cut shaped / formed parts with such a a shop made base by tilting the work piece being cut as the surface of the part was being cut. Hope this description makes sense - was not able to find an image on google of what I am describing.

  5. #15
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    Saw 22nd
    Blades 26th

    Ha!
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

  6. #16
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    Jan 2003
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    On the 14" Rockwell I restored,I bought a couple 10-14 x 3/8" wide bi-metal for it.Those have worked out great so far cutting mostly 11ga. through 1/2" A-36 hot rolled and a boat load of grade 5 bolts.
    Bought mine through McMaster,they delivered Sandvik blades,which so far have worked very well.
    I just need one more tool,just one!

  7. #17
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    Jul 2014
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    Southern Indiana
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    Bob: Will this bandsaw run slow enough for the cutting speeds that most metal cutting requires? Wood cutting saws usually run much faster than metal cutting machines.

    Sarge41

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by sarge41 View Post
    Bob: Will this bandsaw run slow enough for the cutting speeds that most metal cutting requires? Wood cutting saws usually run much faster than metal cutting machines.

    Sarge41
    Its advertised a wood/metal saw. The title says 3 phase, but if you read into the description it says it runs on single phase and uses a VFD. Its probably speed controlled with a potentiometer attached to the VFD. I can turn my big 5HP mill down to 96RPM (3HZ) on its VFD. Torque might not be high enough for heavy cutting if it was 1:1, but I highly doubt that it is. (My 5HP mill is 1:1 and actually takes a pretty good cut at a couple hundred RPM.)

    The product title I think is why its on special by the way. The title says 3 phase. I suspect most small shop and home shop guys just skipped to the next listing. If it said 1PH/3PH with variable speed VFD I suspect it would have sold a lot better to small shop guys.

    Anyway, I do 90% aluminum. You can cut aluminum at wood cutting speeds in a pinch. I suspect I'll be able to turn down the speed to hit aluminum SFM ideally with no problem, and at worst be marginal for steel. I'm only buying HSS bi metal blades, so worst case I can run coolant on it. No plane carbon steel blades except the wood cutting blade it comes with.

    In any case, I'll find out in a few days.
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

  9. #19
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    One of the nice things about Grizzly is you can pull up the owners/parts manual and see just exactly how the thing is designed.

    https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0621x_m.pdf

    Page 46 gives a good picture of the design,it's a belt reduction setup to get a lo/hi range and then the VFD to hit the limits in each range.Uses a special motor mount has a pivot and circular slot for belt adjustment.I have the same motor on my Grizz 14" wood cutting saw.I swapped the adjustment bolt for a lever bolt so I don't have to find a wrench everytime.

    https://www.mcmaster.com/6305k25-6305K45
    I just need one more tool,just one!

  10. #20
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    Jan 2014
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    Edmonton Alberta
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    Quote Originally Posted by wierdscience View Post
    One of the nice things about Grizzly is you can pull up the owners/parts manual and see just exactly how the thing is designed.

    https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0621x_m.pdf

    Page 46 gives a good picture of the design,it's a belt reduction setup to get a lo/hi range and then the VFD to hit the limits in each range.Uses a special motor mount has a pivot and circular slot for belt adjustment.I have the same motor on my Grizz 14" wood cutting saw.I swapped the adjustment bolt for a lever bolt so I don't have to find a wrench everytime.

    https://www.mcmaster.com/6305k25-6305K45

    That a good illustration of the reduction setup,could be slowed down easily with pulley swap if ever needed.Using the full length fence can be a problem with structural steel or aluminium,I've noticed this splitting sqaure tubing it really bows after being cut.In the pic is a lathe Chuck I setup for cutting bolts and lots of other peices now that you have a Vertical.

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