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Thread: Your experience with 6 inch Chinese rotary tables.

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    I have an older Yantai 8" that is horizontal and vertical. I can't find anything to complain about other than the oval bolt slots for the vertical position don't match the the spacing of my BP table T slots. One of these days I'll open the up a little. I put an 8" Bison 3 jaw on it. I've done some pretty accurate work with it.




    You can see in this picture where I have to use a clamp to secure it to the table, and even that's a PIA to try and get at with the chuck mounted.




    JL...............
    Last edited by JoeLee; 08-16-2019 at 10:33 PM.

  2. #12
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    Mar 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by loose nut View Post
    I have an 8" table and it is fine for what I do. If you run an indicator all over it check centre alignment against rotational alignment etc. then you might be run up against the Chinese quality wall. Overall the rotation is smooth without noticeable backlash. Stephan Gotteswinter (you Tube) did a video on improving his Chinese made table and shows the plus's and minus's of them. He can be a bit over the top on accuracy and your needs may vary. They are your only choice unless you can find a good old iron table kicking around. Be aware that the old 'Merican ones where not always perfect either.
    With the Youtubers that go into great lengths to ensure accuracy, I've found my own skills have exponentially increased by mimicking what they do. I'm going to go find his video and watch it.

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Metro Detroit
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    My first rotab was a Wholesale Tool 6 inch. I was turning a 12 inch wheel center (had to weld it up to make it 12.25 dia) on the rotab with a large roughing endmill in the spindle while rotating the rotab (my lathe swing dia is 12.2 inches w/o locally grinding a divot into the lathe bed (partially into the tailstock way) - not that the tailstock would ever be that close to the chuck - I just did not want to be that much of a hack so I used the mill and rotab). I ended up shearing teeth on the ring gear in the rotab. Had I used a less aggressive cut, maybe roughed in the shape with a hand grinder before machining the rotab probably would have survived. Finished turning the wheel center at work during my lunch time (with the blessing of the guys in the machine/fab shop) on a 20 inch swing lathe - I've never operated a lathe that big and the pucker facter was high!

    Now I have a PhaseII 6 inch rotab but have not had need to abuse it like I did the Wholesale Tool rotab. I still have the damaged rotab - figured I might make some sort of a tool out of it someday (4 yrs later still have not figured out what I might use it for).

    For my needs an 8 inch rotab would probably be more durable but with a 6 inch 3-jaw attached to the 6 inch rotab, its at the weight limit that I can comfortably lift.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joel View Post
    Yuasa's are made in Taiwan, if I am not mistaken.
    Yes, the newer ones are. The older ones are Japan. The lables are diff and other things like the dial and oilers. Both pretty good. I do prefer the Japan tables.







    Another Japanese make is "News". Identical to the Yausa.

    My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

  5. #15
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    Jul 2002
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    Thanks every one for your input. Until time runs out I'll shop the used market. You've all been very helpful.

  6. #16
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    Jan 2003
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    Atascosa County, Texas
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    I have an 8" Phase II clone from China. It is very nice and didn't have the $150 premium add-on for the Phase II label.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    NE Thailand
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    +10 on Vertex.
    Also make sure the RoTab you buy is an HV ie has horizontal & vertical capability. At the same time, buy a matching tailstock and a dividing plate set.
    Adds a whole bunch more capability again.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
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    Green Bay, WI
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRouche View Post
    Yes, the newer ones are. The older ones are Japan. The lables are diff and other things like the dial and oilers. Both pretty good. I do prefer the Japan tables.



    ........................................

    Another Japanese make is "News". Identical to the Yuasa.

    Yes the NEWS is a great table and I have one also
    It looks like Yuasa has gone the Chinese route ( Taiwan ) and smaller dials as you can see in the first picture.
    Also when looking at tables, you want to check the gear ratios. Most are 90:1 so One turn is 4 degrees
    My NEWS is 80:1 which has a 4 1/2 Degrees per turn which sounds odd, but is a 2:1 multiple of B & S Dividing Heads and thus can use the same plates/formulas for manual input ( Double chart numbers) . This also works out as my new Arduino drive for indexing is 80:1 , so it fits both units.
    Would still prefer the King, a Troyke, but a NEWS or older Yuasa comes close
    Rich

  9. #19
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    Aug 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Carlstedt View Post
    a Troyke, but a NEWS or older Yuasa comes close
    Rich
    Id love to have a Troyke. Very nice. JR

    I have always had a weird collection sense. Two 8" and a 6" old school Yuasa. I need to check into a mental facility.

    Last edited by JRouche; 08-19-2019 at 08:04 PM.
    My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
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    5

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    I have a 6" Phase II and am very happy with it. I did go to the trouble of stripping and cleaning of all the shipping grease or whatever and then filled it with a good, can't remember what, lubricant. Makes the world of difference.
    If you get new it probably will not have the oil in it so be sure to check. Come to think, even if you get used, same applies.

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

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