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Thread: Making small bolts

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Default Making small bolts

    I have to make a lot of small bolts, #6 & 8 for sure but a lot of smaller ones right down to #1, lots of 2's, 4's and 5's. My problem is that threading dies don't thread up to the base of the head even if it is reversed and run on the thread a second time. Yes a recess can be turned by the head but a lot of times I need the thread to actually be full length.

    Is there a better way to get a full length thread????
    The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

    Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

  2. #2
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    Default

    Seems if you're making a 'lot' of these, thread rolling might be the way to go.
    Here's an old thread with some interesting info: http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/arc...hp/t-8465.html
    Last edited by chipmaker4130; 08-26-2019 at 10:11 AM.

  3. #3
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    Default

    There's no good way of doing it. I use dies for all my small threads and some are better than others for getting up against the shoulder. For small stuff it doesn't take many threads to hold good so in a lot of cases I don't worry about getting up against the shoulder I just counterbore the threaded hole a couple of threads so the unthreaded portion of the screw goes in.
    gbritnell

  4. #4
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    Default

    I've always just turned the die around. If that's not enough, chamfer the hole it goes in or chamfer more. That's what it's for.

  5. #5
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    Feb 2004
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    Default

    You could grind or mill off the back surface of the die so the threads go all the way.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by portlandRon View Post
    You could grind or mill off the back surface of the die so the threads go all the way.
    I had that same thought. Might have to make a spacer or washer so it sits flat in the die holder after you grind it when threading with the front.
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

  7. #7
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    Jan 2014
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    Default

    If hex head bolts are OK, use lengths of threaded rod and tack weld (or loctite) nuts onto the ends.

  8. #8
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    Default

    There's a reason why both sides of a die are chamfered. If you grind it back like that you will create a sharp edge on the die's thread and that will not last long if you are threading anything harder than soft clay.

    A design that requires a thread right up to a shoulder is not a good design.

    If you really need a thread right up to a shoulder, use threaded rod and solder, braze, or glue a nut on it for the head.



    Quote Originally Posted by portlandRon View Post
    You could grind or mill off the back surface of the die so the threads go all the way.
    Paul A.

    Make it fit.
    You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

  9. #9
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    Making large number of screws with dies sounds madness, is there something special about these that store-bought screws don't suit?

    Thread milling or thread whirling would get you close to head but... actually I want to see someone enough crazy to DIY thread whirling machine

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Default

    You build scale models, and want scale hex head bolts. Otherwise, McMaster does sell bolts that are full threaded for a bit more money. Smaller size hex stock is much harder to find these days, why people start asking about such things.

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