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Thread: STC Solenoid Valve - No Worky

  1. #1
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    Default STC Solenoid Valve - No Worky

    I've got a couple 4 way solenoid valves made by STC (imported by STC) that don't seem to work. 12VDC Model 4V310-1/4. They are NIB, but I bought them quite a long time ago for the project I am currently working on. I don't even recall who I bought them from, but they were not super cheap nor excessively expensive. Around $40 if I recall.

    I've used plenty of simple on-off solenoid valves in the past. They just work. You hit them with the rated voltage and adequate current and they reverse condition. Open/closed

    When I hit these STC valves with 12VDC from a 12V battery (plenty of current from a battery) they click and a red light turns on, but the shuttle that changes the port connections of the valve doesn't move. Just to be safe I also tried a 2 amp wall wart. Of course I checked both with a meter.

    I even considered (I can't imagine why) that it might require air to be hooked up for it to actuate. Of course it made no difference other than the noise.

    I'm looking at the installation instructions from STC right now on their website, and I don't see anything that doesn't make sense. Is there a setting or setup I am missing, or do I just have TWO defective valves out of the box?

    https://www.stc9.com/STC-DOWNLOAD/SOP-4V100-400.pdf

    Yeah I dropped an email off to STC, but I am sure I won't hear back from them before Monday at the earliest.
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

  2. #2
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    Looking at https://www.stcvalve.com/Solenoid-Valve/4V310.htm , it looks like the coils can be ordered to work with various voltages that range from 12vDC to 220 AC. Is there anything on the box or part that indicates the voltage? The matrix at https://www.stcvalve.com/Solenoid_Valve.htm shows the following code is used:

    1 = 12VDC
    2 = 24VDC

    2A = 24VAC
    3 = 110VAC
    4 = 220VAC (50/60Hz)

    Dan
    At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.

  3. #3
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    They are probably internally pilot operated, the pressure spec on that valve is 21-115 psi. The spool needs some pressure to shift.

  4. #4
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    Well, I guess it can't hurt to try the same things over again, but I did say in post one it is a 12VDC solenoid valve and that I tried putting air to it while testing it.

    After the last two posts I did look at the side of the solenoid again and it does still say 12VDC, and I did hook an air line to it and even held a finger over the open output port to provide some back pressure and it still didn't work.

    I'm going to set these aside for now, and change the plan slightly using a manual 4 way 5 port valve. I had planned to just run a pair of wires to the front of the machine and trigger a couple valves with a button, but now I am looking at a lot more plumbing. Of course the manual valve works just fine. Fortunately I do have lots of 6mm tube on hand. Gonna have to order some more fittings though.

    Hopefully at some point I'll figure out why these STC solenoid valves do not work.
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

  5. #5
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    Might try removing the coil, energize it, and check that there is a strong enough magnetic field. Would not the first time a coil was mislabeled.

  6. #6
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    Does the manual override work?

  7. #7
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    Valves that sit for a long time will stick, sometimes just over a short shutdown, especially pilot operated ones. the spool will stick, the pilot vale will stick, pilots are really susceptible to dirt. the valves will dry out, you can try some WD-40 and put the air to it, max pressure and bang it on the table, you might get lucky. Try to push the manual operator on the pilot, you probably will have to take the end caps off and free the main spool. I have had a lot of trouble over the years with piloted valves, I always went with the direct operated kind.

    Jon

  8. #8
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    [QUOTE=Bob La Londe;1256153
    After the last two posts I did look at the side of the solenoid again and it does still say 12VDC, [/QUOTE]


    LOL! I've made the mistake of using the box label for technical specs, only to find the wrong product was shipped. It sounded like that could have been the case here, but obviously it was not. we should at least get credit for proposing on topic things to check.

    Dan
    At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by danlb View Post
    LOL! I've made the mistake of using the box label for technical specs, only to find the wrong product was shipped. It sounded like that could have been the case here, but obviously it was not. we should at least get credit for proposing on topic things to check.

    Dan
    Well I tried to mitigate my response so it didn't sound to snotty. LOL. Like you said. You were trying to help on topic.

    I've decided this project is going to use the manual valves. Its a simple push pull knob. I'm actually running four different air lines at 3 different pressures to a high speed ATC spindle. This valve was intended to switch two of them. Now I'll need to switch three of them with it by going manual.

    80ish PSI air cylinder extend
    80ish PSI air cylinder retract (its also spring loaded)
    40ish for tool cleaning when cylinder is extended
    20ish for an air seal all the time.

    I'll have to swap the air cylinder lines and turn on the tool cleaning line both with this valve now, and I'll need to run lines to the front of the machine so I can mount the valve where I can reach it and the spindle at the same time. With the solenoid I could have just run two wires to a button or foot switch or both. I have on/off solenoid valves for everything else and they just work. Now I just need one solenoid valve that turns on when I power up the machine.

    Its going to be fun adjusting the regulators with this setup.
    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

  10. #10
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    *** I always wanted a welding stinger that looked like the north end of a south bound chicken. Often my welds look like somebody pointed the wrong end of a chicken at the joint and squeezed until something came out. Might as well look the part.

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