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Thread: sharpening systems.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    durban s africa
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    Default sharpening systems.

    Not having one and doing most things free hand is probably one of the biggest setbacks in my workshop when it comes to my projects,
    I cant justify buying a fancy tool and cutter grinder.
    Has anyone built something like this and what do you think of it. ?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzEQCvE1cIk

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    6,664

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    That looks like a pretty good project. I would make one. I think your biggest issue would be finding the right type wheels to fit a bench grinder.

    I've always thought of making a similar fixture to hold a dressing nib. This give me some ideas.

    JL.............

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Chilliwack, BC, Canada
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    I looked at that some time ago and liked what I saw. I don't see paying for the shipping out from that side of the world but overall the cost of the kit and parts is fairly reasonable. Keep in mind that the Australian dollar reduces the price in US dollars by quite a bit. I even get a break on my Canuckistan buck! Not much of one but still...…

    Perhaps more importantly given that the plans and other parts are all in metric and my stock and cutter shanks are all in inch I'm thinking to buy the drawings and perhaps a few of the bits and bobs (like the angle setting template) and convert sizes to inches as required.

    Have you seen Harold Hall's grinding rest and ADVANCED GRINDING REST? He also has a number of other sharpening aids that fit on these which are shown in the pictures and some other tricks in his projects and plans index. Might be worth looking at as well.

    All in all I like the very direct approach of the Acute system's base and basic arms for end mills and drills. And perhaps something extra to go with it for things like center drills and counter sinks.

  4. #4
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    Dec 2016
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    Default

    Damn, someone balance that grinder!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    West coast of Canada
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    I built the grinding rest and all of the accessories from Harold Hall's book "Milling A Complete Course" a number of years ago and find it quit handy for a lot of sharpening jobs including end mills. I mounted a cheap Grizzly grinder on steel plate with several sets of holes in it so the grinding rest could be moved around to suit the sharpening job I am doing. I also did some work on the grinder to make sure it was running smoothly and the grind stones would run true.
    Larry

  6. #6
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    Aug 2002
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    Albuquerque
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    A pretty cute system . IF and I mean IF you can ever get a "bench grinder" sit that still. The basic device may well justify building a grinder that can live up to the need. :-)
    ...lew...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    UK, near London
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    Wibbly-wobbly. Table looks it's about 1/16 thick. Typical problem of most recent designs. If you look at an old pro-shop grinder from the '50s the emphasis is on lots of solid cast iron. HH's one is similar perched up on little legs like a stalk (bird). Have a look at the Worden grinder design then design you own version using lumps of 1/4 in plate.
    If you are just doing lathe tools then sure rigidity doesn't matter. Just make a block of wood whose height gets you up the curve of the wheel to give you a 10 degree angle. 10 degrees is fine for every face. No need to get all precious about it.
    But if you are doing mills and reamers then have a think about it. Even 1 thou movement nearer the wheel as you traverse due to lack of solid mounting ruins your symmetry - end mill turns into single edge flycutter.
    Last edited by Baz; 10-08-2019 at 06:10 PM.

  8. #8
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    I'd say that for drills and the ends of end mills the tables as shown are fine. It would be more variations in the operator leaning or not against the table that caused it to flex. And yeah, looking at those setups and having a couple of similar shop made grinding rests that on "just rests" they certainly do flex a few thou from the operator pressure then spring back. It takes a light and consistent touch to avoid the flex. It's not hard to be mindful and do so. But it does mean an extra thing to keep in mind.

    And to be fair there's nothing on the Acute site or Harold's site about sharpening the spirals of the end mills or the flutes of reamers. As noted that's a whole other form of specialty job and would need something more like a proper T&C grinder.

    Again though... to be fair I've got around 7 to 9 end mills that have become dull or chipped which could be put back into use if I could hog away something like 0.1 to 0.2 of an inch roughly then reshape and sharpen on something like their setups. And I "create" two or three such situations per year for end mills. Add to this the ability to make and use some manner of rig for sharpening larger size drills as well and it would be well worth the work to make up either one of the setups of this sort. I certainly don't do enough to justify diverting the cost of even a low end T&C grinder.

  9. #9
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    Mar 2012
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    Ontario,Canada
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    I built one early this year, it was a very nice project to make, lots of small parts which were perfectly suited for my tooling and machinery. First I ordered the plans, got the pdf files the next day,made my parts list and started the build. His videos explains very well the tool assembly and how to use it. I then ordered the angle setting gauge and the square lathe tool collets set. Then bought a cheap ER 16 collet holder and collet set from 1 to 13mm, modified that holder to have the same shank has the plans required. The finished tool slides very smoothly on the table and feel somewhat rigid considering the small part used.Unfortunately my grinder has an un-balanced 6" semi fine wheel which is impossible to do any accurate endmill grinding even with the wheel freshly dressed. My next step is find to find a good deal on a 8" grinder and a cbn grinding wheel $$$.

  10. #10
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    I'm running into balance issues too. Even with new inner "cups" that incorporate the bushing. I'm guessing that the wheels themselves are not all that well balanced. So my next step is to look at making up a balancing rig that I can use for balancing a wheel with a bushing that has offset weights I can adjust. Or perhaps it's time to make the outer cup washer with the loose balls in it that are supposed to self balance?

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