Regarding oil to use in SU dashpots, from a Jaguar service manual, use 30 wt. motor oil.
This is early/mid 1950's book, think they mean non-detergent?
If you want SU spares these are the people - they still make SU carbs:
OK - it's this side of the atlantic but....
At one time had a MG midget, two bug eyes (one of which had the upgrade to the HUGE 1275cc engine) and an Austin America. Also I used to drive my brothers new ‘67 AH 3000 that had three SU carbs and a cool electric overdrive. Don’t miss all of the fun with these vehicles though…the negative ground Lucas electrics, lever shocks, non synchro first gear, (except the Austin America which had a 4 speed semi auto trans) the fact that battery placement was behind the engine and always leaked into the passenger compartment,(nothing like the smell of sulfur with the morning drive) the hokey heating system where you had to turn the heat on from a valve under the bonnet and the graphite throw out bearing instead of a BB. They were fun to drive…as long as one didn’t go more than 20 miles from home. My 2L 2002 sedan with close ratio 5 speed, limited slip rear end, Webber carb, and Bilstien shocks and struts, performed just as well and was more reliable. I am glad that Munich bought Mini, but wish they would have kept the 10” tires and the original. I always wanted a Cooper S. Nowadays, I drive exclusively Toyotas; A Tacoma truck and “button down” Camery. Toyotas never break down and are the most reliable vehicles on the road.
Running Springs, California
[This message has been edited by Don Clement (edited 12-06-2004).]
My very first car was a Morris minor 1000. I traded my Honda 50 for it. It was a real junker so I did a few modifications. Keep in mind that I was living in Bezerkeley at the time. I cut off the roof. I removed the doors. I cut off the front and rear fenders and removed the bonnet and boot lids. By the time I was done I had a 948cc dune buggy. It had pretty decent performance with all that weight removed. I had to install some seat belts so the girlfriends wouldn't get pitched out the side on a turn.
It was so light that I could park by just driving nose first into a tight spot and run around the back and lift the back end into place, maybe 200 lbs tops.
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All this triumph talk.. My girlfriend had a TR-7. I had a cast up to my hip from a wrestling match in FLorida.
You should've seen me climbing into "that car" I had to climb up onto the roof, get my cast started into the well that contained your legs then let the "rest of me" slide down into the seat. Getting out was equally impressive.
Back then I could climb a ladder without using my feet, I was still redfaced when I was in or out. I guess that is why I love big pickup trucks still today. In other words I couldn't do that today if I had a cast on.
It's no good saying you need a "such-and-such for an SU carb." I don't think I've ever seen two different SU models which shared any parts at all. Very similar, maybe, but not close enough. In my experience the older ones (mid-'50s, say) have more fiddly little parts - stacks of ferrules and seals - but are much easier to keep running. Ten years later the parts count was down but I never could get them to work as well as the older ones.
It seems I remember a small piece of flared tubing that fit into the end of the fuel line you are talking about. It stopped the
furrel from collapsing the line when it was tightened. Without that piece the line would leak. If you remove the line from the other float bowl you will see what i'm refering to.