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Thread: Drill press depth stop

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    19

    Post Drill press depth stop

    Hi All,

    Here is a simple little project that will save time and frustration. I finally got tired of screwing the depth stop nuts up and down on my drill press. Made a new screw and added two Quick Threading Push Button nuts from McMaster-Carr. Now I can set depth stop with the push of a button and back it off with the push of a button. Pair of nuts cost about $15.00. Works just like the push button quill stop for a vertical knee mill.

    Yours, Jim

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    191

    Post

    can you post pics it sounds interesting

    Matt in AK
    Matt in AK

  3. #3
    IOWOLF Guest

    Post

    HERE IS ONE THAT i HAVE MODIFIED FOR THAT PURPOUS

    http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Bremerton Washington
    Posts
    5,041

    Post

    I though that was what the drill press table was for. Stop when you see cast iron chips.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    191

    Post

    if my spendle had enough travel hitting the table would be a good stop but that does not even work good on mine (I need a new one
    Matt in AK

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Palo Alto, California
    Posts
    1,320

    Post

    Here are a couple of photos of a cool style of shop built drill press quill stop that indexes directly on the surface of the work and accommodates a variety of workpiece thicknesses:

    http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Feat...ws/cfox030.jpg

    http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Feat...ws/cfox032.jpg
    Cheers,

    Frank Ford
    HomeShopTech

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    19

    Post

    Hi,

    This is my first try at posting a picture.
    This is a picture of the original depth stop.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...9/DSC00094.jpg

    This is the modified depth stop with quik threading nuts.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...9/DSC00095.jpg

    Yours, Jim

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Beaumont, TX
    Posts
    7,423

    Post

    I did this some time ago. Cheap drill press. The original stop had simple jam nuts that were a PITA to adjust and a soft plastic (read flexible) bracket holding the stud to the spindle. And the original hole in the casting that formed the stop had a sloping top so the nut slid across it allowing the spindle to travel even further. So much for any accuracy. It was almost impossible to get consistant results for countersinks or trimming the rough edges. Oh, and it was so close to the head that it was impossible to get a finger or wrench between so you were limited to about 1/8 turn each time.

    I got the pushbutton nut from McMaster for about $5. I choose the 3/8-16 size so it provides 1/16" per turn. That's a time real saver when drilling to depth. I can easily adjust in 64ths.

    I made a new bracket for the spindle from aluminum. I extended it a good distance out from the head to allow good finger clearance. No wrenches needed with this baby as it is self "locking". Well, it has enough friction to stay put and with a flat surface on the stop it has no tendency to rotate. The Bracket has room for additional future accessories (mike stop?). I filed the top of the original stop flat and added a small piece of HRS for the new stop. I made sure it was perpendicular to the spindle axis. The stud was also replaced with a length of 3/8" threaded rod.



    It has made all the difference - night and day. Now I can do "precision" work on my $50 drill press.

    Paul A.
    Paul A.

    Make it fit.
    You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

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