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zero in vice on mill tabel

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  • #31
    <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mochinist:
    Don't worry weird, I make it a point not to work for a-holes that think they know everything.</font>
    So do I,all I am saying is the key slots are there for a reason,not for looks.

    I just need one more tool,just one!


    • #32
      Why don't you put the vise on with the keys, Then check with a indicator? Keeps everybody happy....



      • #33
        Heck, I run vises with keys, and those without. My Kurts did not come with keys. Wish they did,and i would run all with keys.

        I have made my own jaws. Warning here. Soft jaws are great, but using them for common holding, be sure to avoid any chip clamping between work and he jaws, They can pick up the chip and repeatedly put the chip mark in a part. I know we are all careful but.....

        I have milled steps in soft jaws at times for special holding.


        Many people forget the check the base for parallelness to the table/ spindle. I mean check the base where you put your parallels on to be sure the vise can hold parallel of a milled top to a bottom. Think Kurt is perfect, well, they are pretty darned good...BUT...bought a used Kurt for about $25.00.. Also a few "Import" vises as the schools just love "lowest bidder", and before I knew the tricks to specifications, got stuck with six of these. Three could not hold X axis parallel, and the Kurt was .002 out over the X axis, and .004 in the Y over 6 inches. Checked the the bottom parallelness, and found I had to shim all over the place on both X and Y. Bases were not burred or dinged. Once done, I engraved the shimming on the base at the shim points and have always held this base indication true - until I finally got the time to grind the tops and bottoms in right (which many of us do not have surface grinders to do, thus my warnings about the base parallel). This indicating is done from the spindle, not the table of the mill, for the spindle is the "cutting action", and a mill table and draging an indicator with a base on a table to indicate a vise has three points of error (base of indicator, table, and dragging movement of indicator over slots) where indicating from the spindle has one (dragging movement) if that.

        The basics of squaring have been covered quite well, just adding an additional idea here.

        CCBW, MAH


        • #34
          Scott,I know what you mean about the bases,I don't think I have seen many that were flat or paralell.
          The Kurt and the clones at work I check end to end every year or so.I have on several occasions stripped both jaws off and surface ground them back flat along with the bases.Made a big difference.
          I just need one more tool,just one!


          • #35
            Yes, base indicating is too often forgotten. After posting this, I st up the class to do it today - pulled out the old shims and everything, and shimmed up the good ones to be out. Proved my point. The troops indicated the solid jaws as true as could be (I use .0001 indicators to indicate, got all within .0005 or better taking into effect some jaw warp in a couple - but we gound jaws two weeks back). had them cut to parallel an perpendicular - this to test their knowledge and skills in base indicating BUT also for an alterior motive to test my flexing solid jaws and a new procedure of clamping. They had done baes before very early this year, they showed they can get "lax" in procedure, but were reminded quickly.

            Got this point across, and the troops learned a valuable lesson.

            Glad this topic was posted, reminded me to teach this aspect again for re-inforcement.
            CCBW, MAH


            • #36
              Damn, its never takes me more than two-three minutes without the keys!!!!!!!!!!.

              [This message has been edited by Jim Luck (edited 03-07-2005).]


              • #37
                Damn, its never takes me more than two-three minutes without the keys. AM I DOING SOMETHING WRONG?


                • #38
                  Yes Jim Luck you are, you could save 1 1/2 minutes by using the keys. Hope their is no dings or worn spots in your table slots though. Guess you could use the keys and check it with an indicator but that would kinda blow the whole point of using the keys.

                  Someone wrote if you need those kinda accuracy's you need to use a surface grinder, stay out of my shop then cuz you couldn't handle it.


                  • #39
                    Mr Mochinist --- Why did'ent I think of thaaaat!. Heck, I got the keys, just figuered it was to much work puttin em on. Then again, maybe I'll just do it my way -- can't teach an old dog new tricks ya no!, besides it impresses the beginner's!. Thanks for your insight anyway!!!