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  • Parts washer solvent recommendation

    When I was growing up, our home shop consisted of a few specialty machines (valve grinder, seat machine etc) as we only did auto-machine type work.

    Today, I have a more standard hobby machine shop, with the basic 3 machines (mill, lathe and tool grinder) and for Christmas (yes, 3 months ago. . . ) got a 20 gal parts washer. The one we had when I was younger was filled with mineral spirits and some blue/purple additive. It worked great, especially on nasty engine parts, but it smelled harsh and was doubly bad on skin. We always had to wear gloves or suffer split knuckles the next day.

    What I'm interested in today, is a chemical which does well with all normal materials (aluminum, steel, brass etc) and is good for cleaning just the machine type oils (cutting oil, way lube etc) and not years of grime away. I’d prefer the smell to be minimal, as my 2-car garage/shop is connected to the house.

    I've tried the Task brand water based cleaner and it is 100% ok, but mineral spirits is miles better, from my experience.

    What suggestions do board members have? Also include responsible disposal/clean-up if possible.

    Thanks! I'm hoping to get it set-up in a few days. It took 3 months just to clear out the right spot for it!

    Sandy.

  • #2
    My personal favorite is:



    Has such an O-so sweet smell and is refreshing to the skin

    I use it in my ultrasonic cleaner in sealed glass containers.

    For parts washers where you will be bathing in the liquid I still recommend an H2O based cleaner. Believe it or not I use an industrial version of "409" kitchen cleaner. Very tough on grease and oil but even it will start attacking my skin without rubber gloves.

    What ever you use, proper breathing and skin protection is a must. Unfortunately most open cleaning tanks being used are not being used with any protection. Time will tell. The liver is usually the first to go bye-bye. Absorbtion through the skin and inhalation.

    Anyway, I like Tric

    JRouche
    My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

    Comment


    • #3
      I looked into the water-based cleaning agents and they were either pretty expensive or didn't solve grease & oil very well, or both.

      I ended up with straight mineral spirits. I'll admit that my sniffer isn't the most sensitive, but the odor doesn't bother me at all. It does the job well and it doesn't freeze in my unheated garage. It's handy out there just to wash grunge off my hands instead of going into the house and using up hand cleaner. I keep a bottle of lotion next to it to help keep my skin from drying up.

      I've had mine out there for about three years and I haven't needed to worry about disposal yet. I've added more mineral spirits a time or two. I figure if I only have to change it out every few years I will just cart it off to a disposal center. Even if it costs $50 to dispose (and it won't even come close) it averages out to be dirt cheap.

      Works out pretty well for me. I love having a parts washer and use it all the time. This is just my home shop and not a commercial venture.

      Comment


      • #4
        There are some good ideas in this thread in The Third Hand:

        Author Topic: Non-Flammable Solvent For Parts Washer
        webbch
        Member posted 03-01-2005 09:56 PM


        ------------------
        Barry Milton

        [This message has been edited by precisionworks (edited 03-27-2005).]
        Barry Milton

        Comment


        • #5
          I have one word ARMAKLEEN, best stuff ive found as far as water based cleaners.




          ------------------
          I use to hate working for someone else, now I work for everyone else!

          Comment


          • #6
            I used a water based degreaser at about 10 to 1. I got the stuff from the local oil supply house and can't tell you much except it's monster blood green(flourescent)The trick is to use one of those electric engine block heaters that have a magnetic base. Attach it to the bottom of the tank. Hot water makes the stuff clean a whole lot better.

            Comment


            • #7
              This may sound different, but an old dishwasher works great too. just use good dishwasher soap. the hot water and the soap do wonders!!

              Comment


              • #8
                Tric destroys lung tissue.

                Comment


                • #9
                  We use a Castrol product which I can`t remember the name of.It dilutes about 35-1 and we use it at 40 deg C in a dunk wash.Leaves the parts spotless.
                  regards,Mark.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by madman:
                    Tric destroys lung tissue.</font>
                    Tric will destroy yer life. I was being facetious with my earlier statements. But I assumed anyone able to still get Tri-111 would know the risks.

                    Unfortunately it wasn't always so...My dad used to work for the phone company years ago. He would take a can of 111 and dump it onto a rag (bare hands and lungs) and clean a "jute covering" from a wire bundle. I guess it was coated with a sort of resin or tar substance. Did this for years before they stopped using the stuff. That was 35 years ago and he is still living, but the stuff will kill you.
                    JRouche

                    http://www.sciencestuff.com/msds/C2925.html



                    [This message has been edited by JRouche (edited 03-27-2005).]
                    My old yahoo group. Bridgeport Mill Group

                    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/...port_mill/info

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Back in the 80's I used 1,1,1 by the 55 gallon drum full. Pour it in to a smaller can and then pour it all over the roll I was finishing. Wipe it off with a rag and bare hands. It evaporates very quickly, gets cold fast. Also used to grind, polish, sand blast and hard chrome without so much as a dust mask. This was before the hazzard communication act. I was young and dumb back then. Now I'm old and dumb.
                      This how the laws of part cleaning works...The stronger the chemical the better it works. If it's safe, nice smelling and makes your skin soft then it wouldn't clean catsup off your fork. :MAD:

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                      • #12
                        This guy might have the answer..........

                        http://www.chaski.com/ubb/showthread...d&sb=5&o=&vc=1

                        .....but maybe he's been around it too long.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          On dirty nasty parts I have a tub with plain old diesil in it with an air bubbler.Works good on the dirt incrusted oil soaked stuff.

                          I have a parts washer with straight mineral spirits in it,but I want to get away from that.Invariably there are never any glooves around and the crap rings all the oil out of my hands and starts them cracking.

                          I'm thinking in terms of a hot water spray cabinet.Maybe a pressure washer pump and a few dishwasher elements in a sealed cabinet.
                          I just need one more tool,just one!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I use a product from Gunk called "SC" comes in a yellow bottle, get it at the auto parts store. Mix 1 quart with five gallons of kerosene. Cleans very well and odor is minimal.

                            ------------------
                            Paul G.
                            Paul G.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I have been using Tide detergent and warm(hot) water for years. It does almost as well as solvent. It doesn't destroy your skin, is a lot less hazardous to the enviroment and much cheaper than anything else. When parts are clean I just wipe the iron/steel parts with a film of oil to prevent corrosion.
                              Mechanics is one of the courses I teach at high school and Tide is what I have the students use. It works fine.

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