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  • spark plug

    Anybody know of an internally gapped spark plug? Saw a reference to such in a tractor magazine a while back but cannot remember which one or what issue. I have an old spark ignition engine in a track loader that has a weak cylinder that fouls out its plug in a few hours run time. Thanks

  • #2
    What about an oil burner extension? Autozone or similar has them,or you could make your own.
    I just need one more tool,just one!

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    • #3
      Ngk makes them, my old man ran them in his
      truck, try a different heat range for that cyinder or maybe a new set of valve stem seals, cheaper than an overhaul.
      Non, je ne regrette rien.

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      • #4
        What in the world is an 'oil burner extension'?

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        • #5
          It's just a threaded sleeve,one end is the male spark plug thread,the other is the female,all it does is set the plug further up out of the combustion chamber and helps shield the business end from the oil spray/soot

          Last one I bought was $3.20 for the 14mm x 1.25 size plugs.

          They work pretty good,but you still have to clean and gap the plug,just not near as often.It's still a bandaid over a bullet wound.If it's and OHV engine,I would change the valve stem seals if that's the problem.
          I just need one more tool,just one!

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          • #6
            <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I have an old spark ignition engine in a track loader that has a weak cylinder that fouls out its plug in a few hours run time.</font>
            Is this because of low compression or a bad plug wire?

            I've never heard of "an internally gapped spark plug". If you mean the plug has no ground electrode, there are "surface gap" plugs available. These plugs are normally used in racing engines and need an ultra high voltage system to work properly. They are usually a colder plug too.

            A hotter plug might help. A hot plug has a long insulator tip; it holds more heat and tends to burn off deposits.

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            • #7
              Seems to me like Champion used to make some plugs with an internal gap inside the porcelin part that created a hotter spark. James

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              • #8
                http://www.steamengine.com.au/ic/his...ouse-plug1.jpg

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                • #9
                  http://www.steamengine.com.au/ic/his...k-intensifier/

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                  • #10
                    You can make one. Use a piece of 1/4" wiper hose and place over the plug, put the plug wire in the other end and the spark jumping this distance will cause a hotter spark and the spark plug not have to be cleaned as often. Make the spark jump apx. 1/4 inch. Being inside the hose you will not hear the spark jump.

                    A hotter running plug will help also.
                    skeeter

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                    • #11
                      Dealing with a similar problem, I have noticed a strange thing about plugs removed from oil-burning engines:

                      I have a tired old mower with B&S engine - it burns oil, is nearly dead but keeps going...but I notice that the plugs don't last long, they need to be replaced say every 10 hours. The point is, the plug taken out still looks OK, a bit oily, can be easily cleaned to look like new. However, these plugs never seem to work again, they quite often spark from the centre electrode out to the outside of the plug.

                      What I am curious about is - why are these near new plugs dead after running in a tired engine? Clean with wire brush, washed in petrol, allowed to dry - still no good.

                      Not a big problem, just curious.

                      I had a similar problem with plugs in a 327 Chev engine (worn valve guide seals) - although the plugs needed replacing every few hundred miles, they would never be any good again, even after cleaned to look like new.

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                      • #12
                        I learned the hard way.. you can't regap platinum plugs.

                        Once they have been hot, forget it. I tried to experiment with the gap on my ranger. I learned not to.

                        If you have a six or a eight in that old skid loader? Find you a HEI chevy distributor and adapt that in. It'll keep the plugs clean. They make them to fit ford engines now in the race shops. Best ones are the 78-80s pre computer. 6 cyl models have a seperate coil, common electronics thou.
                        Them things throw a spark akin to a magneto. I had one with a Accel super coil in it that I got lit up on. I thought I was going to die, I saw colors...

                        The spark plug extensions are called "anti-foulers" by most auto parts.

                        David

                        [This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 04-10-2005).]

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                        • #13
                          in the "really poor" old days I used to work on small engines for an extra buck. I took a propane tourch to the plug, heated the fireing end red hot @ allowed to cool usually worked like a new one
                          geno

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                          • #14
                            I remember reading years ago that a fouled plug would never be any good. Must be something to that.
                            Michael

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                            • #15
                              peter,

                              I run old engines, and the word on the street is that modern plugs are not made to handle fuel or oil on the inside porcelain. many beleive that if you flood out a new plug, or get oil on it it is toast because the inner porcelain is not glazed. The old take apart style of plugs were meant to be fouled, flooded, etc, and they just need to be cleaned, and they work fine.

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