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Radius Cutter

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  • #16

    [This message has been edited by cliff69 (edited 04-11-2005).]


    • #17
      I don't mind the pictures being posted. The cutter was built to cut the radius on the anvils for an english wheel. The unit mounts in two places, on the cross slide and in the position for the follow rest which will pick up a little height. The anvils were three inch diameter. The lathe is a 14 x40.



      • #18
        I once read of a makeshift method of turning a large radius over a small arc (i.e. on a relatively small diameter workpiece) that goes something like this: Cut a piece of 1/4" (or whatever small diameter is at hand) steel rod at a length equal to the radius you want to make. Sharpen the ends to points, like pencil points. Next, using a center punch, make a mark on the side of the headstock, and on the side of the cross slide, facing each other and lined up with each other when the tool at the spindle center line. Now, back the tool to the outside of the workpiece and suspend the rod between the center punch marks. It will be set over at an angle. Bring the tool to the workpiece with the compound slide. (The compound slide must be aligned with the spindle so you can use it for longitudinal infeed.) As you feed across the face with the cross slide, the rod will straighten out and push the carriage to the right, causing the tool to sweep an arc. This will make a convex radius, a concave cut can be made with the rod suspended between the cross slide and the tailstock.

        I had little success with this method, but based on the principle I cobbled together this attachment out of scrap bin parts:

        One part is clamped to the cross slide, one part to the bed, and they're connected by an adjustable rod set into pivoting posts. The distance between the posts is the radius of the toolpath. It doesn't work as well as I'd hoped, but with some coaxing I get a usable result. I'm sure it could be refined, mainly by making it more rigid. Maybe this will give you some useful ideas. (BTW, for this photo I had to work from the backside of the stock with the spindle running reverse, so that the chuck jaws would clear the radius rod. That's why it looks a bit bass-ackwards.)


        • #19
          cliff69,nice reflection,are you that little fat guy with very long arms?nice ball,just like a ball bearing.


          • #20
            Randy, Brilliant idea. I,m thinking that if you used a tie rod end( spherical bushing at each end) adjustable for length, that would solve the ridgity problem. Also,if the tie rod was bolted to the taper attatchment bar and the other end to the cross slide, perfect long radius would be generated on the part mounted between centres. Doug


            • #21
              March 1960 Popular Science had prints for a very nice ball turning attachment for a 9â€‌ S/B.
              About 15 years ago I adapted the design very easily to my 10â€‌ S/B. It was a nice project and makes a very accurate and rigid tool.
              The magazine was available at our public library.
              Good Luck


              • #22
                <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by alwynoak:
                cliff69,nice reflection,are you that little fat guy with very long arms?nice ball,just like a ball bearing.</font>
                Yeah, I guess so! ;-)


                • #23
                  Here is a simple trace tool I made some time ago.

                  The template mounts on the tailstock spindle. Cut depth adjustments are with the tailstock. The bearing radius has to be added to the template radius.

                  It works, but would be better if the tool spindle was self contained spring loaded unit instead of pushing the complete carriage.

                  The carriage needs a little help to move smoothly.

                  This article discribes setup and use of a manual tracer unit purchased off E-bay for $150.. See issue #21.


                  Good luck.


                  [This message has been edited by kap pullen (edited 04-13-2005).]