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O/T pull behind scraper

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  • O/T pull behind scraper

    Hi All;
    Anyone got plans for a pull/tow behind scraper that can be used with a 14hp garden tractor, or know where I can get them?

  • #2
    Get two lengths of used rail or 4" to 6" I beam. Weld on a couple of pad eyes. Chain them together one 2 feet behind the other to make a drag so each is at a shallow but opposite angle parallel to the tractor axle. Hitch the drag with a chain bridle to the tractor's drawbar.

    Ten trips up and down a gravel driveway will make a big improvement in the bumps and ruts. Do it once a week thereafter. You'll still have to do a little shovel and fill work but that's part of the fun.

    [This message has been edited by Forrest Addy (edited 04-27-2005).]


    • #3
      Does that work better than a standard rear blade on a 3-point? I've been grooming my driveway with that for a couple years, and I'd really like something better. Heavier is probably what I need.


      • #4

        Assuming you have a 3 point hitch; look for a 3 or 4 foot box scraper at tractor supply stores; probably will cost about $300 to $400.
        The best for grading and scraping using a tractor. Anything longer than 4 foot would be too much for 14 hp.
        If you don't have 3 point hitch on your tractor then get a plow blade and use it backwards to scrape.


        • #5

          that is a GREAT idea!!!!! i've been looking for a blade of some sort, and your idea is what i think i'll do. i just have to keep visiting the scrap yard to see when they bring in the next batch of I-beams. any excuse to visit the scrap yard.

          andy b.
          The danger is not that computers will come to think like men - but that men will come to think like computers. - some guy on another forum not dedicated to machining


          • #6
            OK, thanks for the replies guys;
            Yeah I have that, but I was looking for one I can adjust the heighth via wheels situated at the rear. I can't seem to find a picture of the one I am thinking about. I will be using it to grade low spots on the property. I have a Massey-ferguson 135 tractorwith front end loader rear scraper blade and a wood splitter, but the tires tear up the lawn, so anything to do with it is out.
            I priced turf tires for it, and they cost more that the tractor is worth, and might not even be able to get them in the size that fits this machine. At any rate, I appreciate your help.

            I have kind of been looking at the box scraper, but really don't know how they work. My uneducated guess would be to remove the tynes and just use the box, now if I do this, the box would scrape the medium flat and the excess would load into the box, then some of it would fill in the low spots, have I got this right?

            [This message has been edited by shaque (edited 04-27-2005).]


            • #7

              What is the height of the tire currently on the tractor. I can and have made adapters for the big truck tires for tractors. One recently I just burned out with a torch. Turf tires are wide and spread the load out? Right?

              If so you might be able to get by with some wore out Offroader mudders. (get them for nothing) and mount them on rims. The cleats are what gives the yard damage if I am thinking correctly.


              • #8
                That's right they work like a champ. Only use the tines if you want to grade or landscape and remove large amounts of hard earth.
                I've had a 5 foot box scraper (since 1988) on a 33 hp New Holland. My scraper has two blades one for pulling and one for pushing. I have used it for all kinds of roadwork as well as landscaping.
                Another item that would work is a landscape rake. I don't have one but a friend says they work great on gravel or dirt roadways.
                I also have a plow blade that I can turn around and use like a drag scraper.
                Another point on the box scraper is that by adjusting the top link you can control the agressiveness of the scraping.

                [This message has been edited by Ted Coffey (edited 04-27-2005).]


                • #9
                  This is what you need. I'll rent it to ya!
                  Diesel Kenbota Grader with front tiller.


                  • #10
                    CCWKen. That grader of yours is beautimous, but a small V8 Cat diesel engine would set it off nicely, or maybe a V4 Detroit, but then you'd likely have to get bigger axle and tires and----. It appears to me that you might have way too much time on your hands.

                    [This message has been edited by Artpro (edited 04-27-2005).]


                    • #11
                      You can do the same thing with a handfull of 4x4's, some big huge long nails and bags of sand.

                      That's how we used to have it set up for dragging our go cart track at my neighbors house



                      • #12

                        Most likely a bit large for your Massey 135 but they do work well. You could scale it down.



                        [This message has been edited by Mike Burdick (edited 04-27-2005).]


                        • #13
                          I actually looked at doing just that, I have been drooling over your machine ever since you posted it. That does leave me with another option.........we'll see........
                          The tractor that I would put it on is a 1972 Bolens large frame, can't remember the model number, but it has 15 or 16 inch drive wheels, and has hydraulics, so gotta think some more. Gotta check the junk...errrr parts stock and see what I have. Thanks Jim


                          • #14
                            We have long tracks in from the road which are graded. For a few years it was done with a ford 6600 (75HP) and a grader blade on the threepoint linkage.It shifted some dirt and filled the potholes with loose soil which came out with the next rain.Not that we see much rain here at present. In all it did not give a good result because even when we fiddled with the angle and slope of the blade it failed to create a properly curved road crown.
                            In the end we got the local council to call in with their big road grader once a year and that met our needs in all but the worst years. The grader driver (civil engineer) is a bit like a machinist with a hammer, he knows just how hard or soft to go to get a good finish. He will also put in runoff drains with the edge of his blade and over a few years work the track into a pretty good road.He does a bit extra each year and the Council charges are reasonable if you ask them to do the job when they have the gear in your area for another job.

                            Reminds me the first class I attended the manual arts teacher put a hammer and a shifter on the bench and said the hammer is for a carpenter and the shifting spanner was for a plummer and we could forget about using them for the next four years.

                            Best of luck with the road building.If you get the Council to do it you get more time in the shop.